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Old 09-12-2008, 11:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Old 09-27-2008, 06:43 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Written By: Misc. Authors
Part of the Mystery_Train Project
Table of Contents
1. Counterfeiting Money
2. Credit Card Fraud
3. Making Plastic Explosives
4. Picking Master Locks
5. The Arts of Lockpicking I
6. The Arts of Lockpicking II
7. Solidox Bombs
8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox
9. CO Bombs
10. Thermite II Bombs
11. Touch Explosives
12. Letter Bombs
13. Paint Bombs
14. Ways to send a car to HELL
15. Do you hate school?
16. Phone related vandalism
17. Highway police radar jamming
18. Smoke Bombs
19. Mail Box Bombs
20. Hot-wiring cars
21. Napalm
22. Fertilizer Bomb
23. Tennis Ball Bomb
24. Diskette Bombs
25. Unlisted Phone Numbers
26. Fuses
27. How to make Potassium Nitrate
28. Exploding Lightbulbs
29. Under water igniters
30. Home-brew blast cannon
31. Chemical Equivalency List
32. Phone Taps
33. Landmines
34. A different Molitov Cocktail
35. Phone Systems Tutorial I
36. Phone Systems Tutorial II
37. Basic Alliance Teleconferencing
38. Aqua Box Plans
39. Hindenberg Bomb
40. How to Kill Someone
41. Phone Systems Tutorial III
42. Black Box Plans
43. The Blotto Box
44. Blowgun
45. Brown Box Plans
46. Calcium Carbide Bomb
47. More Ways to Send a Car to Hell
48. Ripping off Change Machines
49. Clear Box Plans
50. CNA Number Listing
51. Electronic Terrorism
52. Start a Conf. w/o 2600hz or MF
53. Dynamite
54. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower
55. How to Break into BBs Express
56. Firebomb
57. Fuse Bomb
58. Generic Bomb
59. Green Box Plans
60. Portable Grenade Launcher
61. Basic Hacking Tutorial I
62. Basic Hacking Tutorial II
63. Hacking DEC's
64. Harmless Bombs
65. Breaking into Houses
66. Hypnotism
67. Remote Informer Issue #1
68. Jackpotting ATM Machines
69. Jug Bomb
70. Fun at K-Mart
71. Mace Substitute
72. How to Grow Marijuana
73. Match Head Bomb
74. Terrorizing McDonalds
75. "Mentor's" Last Words
76. The Myth of the 2600hz Detector
77. Blue Box Plans
78. Napalm II
79. Nitroglycerin Recipe
80. Operation: Fuckup
81. Stealing Calls from Payphones
82. Pool Fun
83. Free Postage
84. Unstable Explosives
85. Weird Drugs
86. The Art of Carding
87. Recognizing Credit Cards
88. How to Get a New Identity
89. Remote Informer Issue #2
90. Remote Informer Issue #3
91. Remote Informer Issue #4
92. Remote Informer Issue #5
93. Phreaker's Guide to Loop Lines
94. Ma-Bell Tutorial
95. Getting Money out of Pay Phones
96. Computer-based PBX
97. PC-Pursuit Port Statistics
98. Pearl Box Plans
99. The Phreak File
100.Red Box Plans
102.Scarlet Box Plans
103.Silver Box Plans
104.Bell Trashing
105.Canadian WATS Phonebook
106.Hacking TRW
107.Hacking VAX & UNIX
108.Verification Circuits
109.White Box Plans
110.The BLAST Box
111.Dealing with the R&R Operator
112.Cellular Phone Phreaking
113.Cheesebox Plans
114.Start Your Own Conferences
115.Gold Box Plans
116.The History of ESS
117.The Lunch Box
118.Olive Box Plans
119.The Tron Box
120.More TRW Info
121."Phreaker's Phunhouse"
122.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
123.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 27
124.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
125.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
126.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 28
127.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
128.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
129.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 3, Issue 30
130.Sodium Chlorate
131.Mercury Fulminate
132.Improvised Black Powder
133.Nitric Acid
134.Dust Bomb Instructions
135.Carbon-Tet Explosive
136.Making Picric Acid from Aspirin
137.Reclamation of RDX from C-4
138.Egg-based Gelled Flame Fuels
139.Clothespin Switch
140.Flexible Plate Switch
141.Low Signature System [Silencers]
142.Delay Igniter From Cigarette
144.Dried Seed Timer
145.Nail Grenade
146.Bell Glossary
147.Phone Dial Locks -- Beat'em
148.Exchange Scanning
149.A Short History of Phreaking
150."Secrets of the Little Blue Box"
151.The History of British Phreaking
152."Bad as Shit"
154.Fucking with the Operator
155.Phrack Magazine-Vol. 1, Issue 1
156.International Country Codes List
157.Infinity Transmitter Plans
160.Yummy Marihuana Recipes
162.Chemical Fire Bottle
163.Igniter from Book Matches
164."Red or White Powder" Propellant
165.Pipe Hand Grenade
166.European Credit Card Fraud
167.Potassium Bomb
168.Your Legal Rights
169.Juvenile Offenders' Rights
170.Down The Road Missle
171.Fun With Shotgun Shells
172.Surveillance Equipment
173.Drip Timer
176.Shaving cream bomb
177.Ripping off change machines II
178.Lockpicking the EASY way
179.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Prelude
180.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 1
181.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 2
182.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 3
183.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 4
184.Anarchy 'N' Explosives Vol. 5
185.Explosives and Propellants
186.Lockpicking III
187.Chemical Equivalent List II
188.Nitroglycerin II
189.Cellulose Nitrate
190.Starter Explosives
191.Flash Powder
192.Exploding Pens
193.Revised Pipe Bombs
195.Ammonium TriIodide
196.Sulfuric Acid & Amm. Nitrate III
197.Black Powder III
200.The Black Gate BBS
202.Picric Acid II
203.Bottled Explosives
204.Dry Ice
205.Fuses / Ignitors / Delays
206.Film Canister Bombs
207.Book Bombs
208.Phone Bombs
209.Special Ammunition
211.Pipe Cannon II
212.Smoke Bombs
214.Suppliers II
215.Lab-Raid Checklist
216.Misc Anarchy
217.Combo Locks II
218.Misc Anarchy II
219.Thermite IV
1. Counterfeiting Money by The Jolly Roger
Before reading this article, it would be a very good idea to get a book on
photo offset printing, for this is the method used in counterfeiting US
currency. If you are familiar with this method of printing, counterfeiting
should be a simple task for you.
Genuine currency is made by a process called "gravure", which involves etching
a metal block. Since etching a metal block is impossible to do by hand, photo
offset printing comes into the process.
Photo offset printing starts by making negatives of the currency with a camera,
and putting the negatives on a piece of masking material (usually orange in
color). The stripped negatives, commonly called "flats", are then exposed to a
lithographic plate with an arc light plate maker. The burned plates are then
developed with the proper developing chemical. One at a time, these plates are
wrapped around the plate cylinder of the press.
The press to use should be an 11 by 14 offset, such as the AB Dick 360. Make 2
negatives of the portrait side of the bill, and 1 of the back side. After
developing them and letting them dry, take them to a light table. Using opaque
on one of the portrait sides, touch out all the green, which is the seal and
the serial numbers. The back side does not require any retouching, because it
is all
one color. Now, make sure all of the negatives are registered (lined up
correctly) on the flats. By the way, every time you need another serial number,
shoot 1 negative of the portrait side, cut out the serial number, and remove
the old serial number from the flat replacing it with the new one.
Now you have all 3 flats, and each represents a different color: black, and 2
shades of green (the two shades of green are created by mixing inks). Now you
are ready to burn the plates. Take a lithographic plate and etch three marks on
it. These marks must be 2 and 9/16 inches apart, starting on one of the short
edges. Do the same thing to 2 more plates. Then, take 1 of the flats and place
it on the plate, exactly lining the short edge up with the edge of the plate.
Burn it, move it up to the next mark, and cover up the exposed area you have
already burned. Burn that, and do the same thing 2 more times, moving the flat
up one more mark. Do the same process with the other 2 flats (each on a
separate plate). Develop all three plates. You should now have 4 images on each
plate with an equal space between each bill.
The paper you will need will not match exactly, but it will do for most
situations. The paper to use should have a 25% rag content. By the way,
Disaperf computer paper (invisible perforation) does the job well. Take the
paper and load it into the press. Be sure to set the air, buckle, and paper
thickness right. Start with the black plate (the plate without the serial
numbers). Wrap it around the cylinder and load black ink in. Make sure you run
more than you need because there will be a lot of rejects. Then, while that is
printing, mix the inks for the serial numbers and the back side. You will need
to add some white and maybe yellow to the serial number ink. You also need to
add black to the back side. Experiment until you get it right. Now, clean the
press and print the other side. You will now have a bill with no green seal or
serial numbers. Print a few with one serial number, make another and repeat.
Keep doing this until you have as many different numbers as you want. Then cut
the bills to the exact size with a paper cutter. You should have printed a
large amount of money by now, but there is still one problem; the paper is pure
white. To dye it, mix the following in a pan: 2 cups of hot water, 4 tea bags,
and about 16 to 20 drops of green food coloring (experiment with this). Dip one
of the bills in and compare it to a genuine US bill. Make the necessary
adjustments, and dye all the bills. Also, it is a good idea to make them look
used. For example, wrinkle them, rub coffee grinds on them, etc.
As before mentioned, unless you are familiar with photo offset printing, most
of the information in this article will be fairly hard to understand. Along
with getting a book on photo offset printing, try to see the movie "To Live and
Die in LA". It is about a counterfeiter, and the producer does a pretty good
job of showing how to counterfeit. A good book on the subject is "The Poor
Man's James Bond".
If all of this seems too complicated to you, there is one other method
available for counterfeiting: The Canon color laser copier. The Canon can
replicate ANYTHING in vibrant color, including US currency. But, once again,
the main problem in counterfeiting is the paper used. So, experiment, and good
2. Credit Card Fraud by The Jolly Roger
For most of you out there, money is hard to come by. Until now:
With the recent advent of plastic money (credit cards), it is easy to use
someone else's credit card to order the items you have always desired in life.
The stakes are high, but the payoff is worth it.
Step One: Getting the credit card information
First off, you must obtain the crucial item: someone's credit card number. The
best way to get credit card numbers is to take the blue carbons used in a
credit card transaction at your local department store. These can usually be
found in the garbage can next to the register, or for the more daring, in the
garbage dumpster behind the store. But, due to the large amount of credit card
fraud, many stores have opted to use a carbonless transaction sheet, making
things much more difficult. This is where your phone comes in handy.
First, look up someone in the phone book, and obtain as much information as
possible about them. Then, during business hours, call in a very convincing
voice - "Hello, this is John Doe from the Visa Credit Card Fraud Investigations
Department. We have been informed that your credit card may have been used for
fraudulent purposes, so will you please read off the numbers appearing on your
Visa card for verification." Of course, use your imagination! Believe it or
not, many people will fall for this ploy and give out their credit information.
Now, assuming that you have your victim's credit card number, you should be
able to decipher the information given.
Step Two: Recognizing information from carbon copies
Card example:
[American Express]
MM/Y1 is the date the card was issued, and MM/Y2 is the expiration date. The
American Express Gold Card has numbers XXXXXX XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXX, and is covered
for up to $5000.00, even if the card holder is broke.
XXXX in the second row may be asked for during the ordering process. The first
date is when the card was new, and the second is when the card expires. The
most frequent number combination used is 5424 1800 XXXX XXXX. There are many of
these cards in circulation, but many of these are on wanted lists, so check
these first.
Visa is the most abundant card, and is accepted almost everywhere. The "*VISA"
is sometimes replaced with "BWG", or followed with a special code. These codes
are as follows:
[1] MM/YY*VISA V - Preferred Card
[2] MM/YY*VISA CV - Classic Card
[3] MM/YY*VISA PV - Premier Card
Preferred Cards are backed with money, and are much safer to use. Classic Cards
are newer, harder to reproduce cards with decent backing. Premier Cards are
Classic Cards with Preferred coverage. Common numbers are 4448 020 XXX XXX,
4254 5123 6000 XXXX, and 4254 5123 8500 XXXX. Any 4712 1250 XXXX XXXX cards are
IBM Credit Union cards, and are risky to use, although they are usually covered
for large purchases.
Step Three: Testing credit
You should now have a Visa, Mastercard, or American Express credit card number,
with the victim's address, zip code, and phone number. By the way, if you have
problems getting the address, most phone companies offer the Address Tracking
Service, which is a special number you call that will give you an address from a
phone number, at a nominal charge. Now you need to check the balance of credit
on the credit card (to make sure you don't run out of money), and you must also
make sure that the card isn't stolen. To do this you must obtain a phone number
that businesses use to check out credit cards during purchases. If you go to a
department store, watch the cashier when someone makes a credit card purchase.
He/she will usually call a phone number, give the credit information, and then
give what is called a "Merchant Number". These numbers are usually written down
on or around the register. It is easy to either find these numbers and copy
them, or to wait until they call one in. Watch what they dial and wait for the
8 digit (usually) merchant number. Once you call the number, in a calm voice,
read off the account number, merchant number, amount, and expiration date. The
credit bureau will tell you if it is OK, and will give you an authorization
number. Pretend you are writing this number down, and repeat it back to them to
check it. Ignore this number completely, for it serves no real purpose.
However, once you do this, the bank removes dollars equal to what you told
them, because the card was supposedly used to make a purchase. Sometimes you
can trick the operator by telling her the customer changed his mind and decided
not to charge it. Of course, some will not allow this. Remember at all times
that you are supposed to be a store clerk calling to check out the card for a
purchase. Act like you are talking with a customer when he/she "cancels".
Step Four: The drop
Once the cards are cleared, you must find a place to have the package sent.
NEVER use a drop more than once. The following are typical drop sites:
[1] An empty house
An empty house makes an excellent place to send things. Send the package UPS,
and leave a note on the door saying, "UPS. I work days, 8 to 6. Could you
please leave the package on the back door step?" You can find dozens of houses
from a real estate agent by telling them you want to look around for a house.
Ask for a list of twenty houses for sale, and tell them you will check out the
area. Do so, until you find one that suits your needs.
[2] Rent A Spot
U-Haul sometimes rents spaces where you can have packages sent and signed for.
End your space when the package arrives.
[3] People's houses
Find someone you do not know, and have the package sent there. Call ahead
saying that "I called the store and they sent the package to the wrong address.
It was already sent, but can you keep it there for me?" This is a very reliable
way if you keep calm when talking to the people.
Do NOT try post office boxes. Most of the time, UPS will not deliver to a post
office box, and many people have been caught in the past attempting to use a
post office box. Also, when you have determined a drop site, keep an eye on it
for suspicious characters and cars that have not been there before.
Step Five: Making the transaction
You should now have a reliable credit card number with all the necessary
billing information, and a good drop site.
The best place to order from is catalogues, and mail order houses. It is in
your best interest to place the phone call from a pay phone, especially if it
is a 1-800 number. Now, when you call, don't try to disguise your voice,
thinking you will trick the salesperson into believing you are an adult. These
folks are trained to detect this, so your best bet is to order in your own
voice. They will ask for the following: name, name as it appears on card, phone
number, billing address, expiration date, method of shipping, and product. Ask
if they offer UPS Red shipping (next day arrival), because it gives them less
time to research an order. If you are using American Express, you might have a
bit of a problem shipping to an address other than the billing address. Also,
if the salesperson starts to ask questions, do NOT hang up. Simply talk your
way out of the situation, so you won't encourage investigation on the order.
If everything goes right, you should have the product, free of charge.
Insurance picks up the tab, and no one is any wiser. Be careful, and try not to
order anything over $500. In some states, UPS requires a signature for anything
over $200, not to mention that anything over $200 is defined as grand theft, as
well as credit fraud. Get caught doing this, and you will bite it for a couple
of years. Good luck!
3. Making Plastic Explosives from Bleach by The Jolly Roger
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been
used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and
mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. Common household bleach
contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted by the
procedure that follows.
First off, you must obtain:
1. A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.)
2. A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer
3. A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals)
4. Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it.
While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add
this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated
with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a
battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between
room temperature and 0C. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save
them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in
the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat
this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save
the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called
"fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure
potassium chlorate.
Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off
all moisture.
Now, melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white
gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium
chlorate (the powdered crystals from above) into a plastic bowl. Knead this
liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline
to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur,
sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the
desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water
proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.
Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results
in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose
explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and
you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this
You may obtain a catalog of other subject of this nature by writing:
Information Publishing Co.
Box 10042
Odessa, Texas 79762
4. Picking Master Locks by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever tried to impress someone by picking one of those Master
combination locks and failed?
The Master lock company made their older combination locks with a protection
scheme. If you pull the handle too hard, the knob will not turn. That was their
biggest mistake.
The first number:
Get out any of the Master locks so you know what is going on. While pulling on
the clasp (part that springs open when you get the combination right), turn the
knob to the left until it will not move any more, and add five to the number
you reach. You now have the first number of the combination.
The second number:
Spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the first number you got.
Turn the dial to the right, bypassing the first number once. When you have
bypassed the first number, start pulling on the clasp and turning the knob. The
knob will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove, pull
the clasp and turn the knob. If the knob is loose, go to the next groove, if
the knob is stiff, you have the second number of the combination.
The third number:
After getting the second number, spin the dial, then enter the two numbers.
Slowly spin the dial to the right, and at each number, pull on the clasp. The
lock will eventually open if you did the process right.
This method of opening Master locks only works on older models. Someone
informed Master of their mistake, and they employed a new mechanism that is
foolproof (for now).
5. The Arts of Lockpicking I by The Jolly Roger
Lockpicking I: Cars and assorted other locks
While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed much
in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the
Many older automobiles can still be opened with a Slim Jim type of opener
(these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book "In
the Still of the Night", by John Russell III); however, many car manufacturers
have built cases over the lock mechanism, or have moved the lock mechanism so
the Slim Jim will not work. So:
American Locksmith Service
P.O. Box 26
Culver City, CA 90230
ALS offers a new and improved Slim Jim that is 30 inches long and 3/4 inches
wide, so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside
the door). Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling.
Cars manufactured by General Motors have always been a bane to people who
needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very
difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars employ metal
shields to make the use of a Slim Jim type instrument very difficult. So:
Lock Technology Corporation
685 Main St.
New Rochelle, NY 10801
LTC offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder
without harm to the vehicle, and will allow you to enter and/or start the
vehicle. The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling.
The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools
offered by:
Steck MFG Corporation
1319 W. Stewart St.
Dayton, OH 45408
For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lockout tools that
will open more than 95% of all the cars around.
Kwickset locks have become quite popular as one step security locks for many
types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of
security than a normal builder installed door lock. So:
1151 Wallace St.
Massilon, OH 44646
Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door opened
without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned Kwick
Out tool.
If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:
Veehof Supply
Box 361
Storm Lake, IO 50588
VS sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one
master key for any one make of car, but there are group type masters (a.k.a.
tryout keys). Prices average about $20.00 a set.
Updated Lockpicking:
For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedures for most pin and
tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows:
Normal Picking:
Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and
the lock opens.
This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond
shape notches. These picks are "raked" (i.e. run over all the pins at one
time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there.
Raking, if successful, can be much less of an effort than standard picking.
Lock Aid Gun:
This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found
application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle
shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the "gun", and the "trigger" is pulled.
This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under
the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck
they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second.
When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful,
but when it does work, the results are very dramatic. You can sometimes open
the lock with one snap of the trigger.
Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power
unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks -- instantly.
There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time.
Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, it is actually an
electronic device. I am speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:
Fed Corporation
P.O. Box 569
Scottsdale, AR 85252
The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a
cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works
both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group
one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the
hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a
half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group
two locks (including government, high security, and medicos), although this can
take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidebar locks, although a device
is about to be introduced to fill that gap. How much for this toy that will
open most locks in seven seconds?
$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.
For you hard core safe crackers, FC also sells the MI-6 that will open most
safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model, and $10,500 for
the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor,
disk drive and software.
If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on
the magic thermal lance...
The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8 inch hollow
magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10 foot length, but can be cut down if
desired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube
together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an
oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard
welding igniter. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used
for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a
foot of steel in a few seconds. The lance is also known as a burning bar, and
is available from:
7748 W. Addison
Chicago, IL 60634
6. The Arts of Lockpicking II by The Jolly Roger
So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you want to be like James Bond and open
a lock in fifteen seconds, then go to Hollywood, because that is the only place
you are ever going to do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten
minutes on a lock if they are unlucky. If you are wanting extremely quick
access, look elsewhere. The following instructions will pertain mostly to the
"lock in knob" type lock, since it is the easiest to pick.
First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you
a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a
locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don't give up hope. It is possible to make
your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes
The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small
enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench
at a slight angle (not 90). Now, take your pick to a grinder or a file, and
smooth the end until it is rounded so it won't hang inside the lock. Test your
tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out
smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. It must be small
enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one
above the other. In the coming instructions, please refer to this chart of the
interior of a lock:
\ K
| | | | | | / E
| | | | \ Y [|] Upper tumbler pin
^ ^ / H [^] Lower tumbler pin
^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ \ O [-] Cylinder wall
/ L (This is a greatly simplified
\ E drawing)
The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and
the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, it's
tendency is to fall back down, right? That is where the screwdriver comes in.
Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the
"solved" pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to
the front, and when you are through, there will be a click, the screwdriver
will turn freely, and the door will open.
Do not get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about
twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that, you will quickly improve
with practice.
7. Solidox Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Most people are not aware that a volatile, extremely explosive chemical can be
bought over the counter: Solidox.
Solidox comes in an aluminum can containing 6 grey sticks, and can be bought at
K-Mart, and various hardware supply shops for around $7.00. Solidox is used in
welding applications as an oxidizing agent for the hot flame needed to melt
metal. The most active ingredient in Solidox is potassium chlorate, a filler
used in many military applications in the WWII era.
Since Solidox is literally what the name says: SOLID OXygen, you must have an
energy source for an explosion. The most common and readily available energy
source is common household sugar, or sucrose. In theory, glucose would be the
purest energy source, but it is hard to find a solid supply of glucose.
Making the mixture:
1. Open the can of Solidox, and remove all 6 sticks. One by one, grind up each
of the sticks (preferably with a mortar and pestle) into the finest powder
2. The ratio for mixing the sugar with the Solidox is 1:1, so weigh the Solidox
powder, and grind up the equivalent amount of sugar.
3. Mix equivalent amounts of Solidox powder, and sugar in a 1:1 ratio.
It is just that simple! You now have an extremely powerful substance that can
be used in a variety of applications. A word of caution: be EXTREMELY careful
in the entire process. Avoid friction, heat, and flame. A few years back, a
teenager I knew blew 4 fingers off while trying to make a pipe bomb with
Solidox. You have been warned!
8. High Tech Revenge: The Beigebox - Rev.2 by The Jolly Roger
I. Introduction
Have you ever wanted a lineman's handset? Surely every phreak has at least once
considered the phun that he could have with one. After searching unlocked phone
company trucks for months, we had an idea. We could build one. We did, and
named it the "Beige Box" simply because that is the color of ours.
The beigebox is simply a consumer lineman's handset, which is a phone that can
be attached to the outside of a person's house. To fabricate a beigebox, follow
II. Construction and Use
The construction is very simple. First you must understand the concept of the
device. In a modular jack, there are four wires. These are red, green, yellow,
and black. For a single line telephone, however, only two matter: the red
(ring) and green (tip). The yellow and the black are not necessary for this
project. A lineman's handset has two clips on it: the ring and the tip. Take a
modular jack and look at the bottom of it's casing. There should be a grey jack
with four wires (red, green, yellow & black) leading out of it. To the end of
the red wire attach a red alligator clip. To the end of the green wire attach a
green alligator clip. The yellow and black wires can be removed, although I
would only set them aside so that you can use the modular jack in future
projects. Now insert your telephone's modular plug into the modular jack.
That's it. This particular model is nice because it is can be easily made, is
inexpensive, uses common parts that are readily available, is small, is
lightweight, and does not require the destruction of a phone.
III. Beige Box Uses
There are many uses for a Beige Box. However, before you can use it, you must
know how to attach it to the output device. This device can be of any of Bell
switching apparatus that include germinal sets (i.e. remote switching centers,
bridgin heads, cans, etc.) To open most Bell Telephone switching apparatus, you
must have a 7/16 inch hex driver (or a good pair of needle nose pliers work
also). This piece of equipment can be picked up at your local hardware store.
With your hex driver (or pliers), turn the security bolt(s) approximately 1/8
of an inch counter-clockwise and open. If your output device is locked, then
you must have some knowledge of destroying and/or picking locks. However, we
have never encountered a locked output device. Once you have opened your output
device, you should see a mass of wires connected to terminals. On most output
devices, the terminals should be labeled "T" (Tip -- if not labeled, it is
usually on the left) and "R" (Ring -- if not labeled, usually on the right).
Remember: Ring - red - right. The "Three R's" -- a simple way to remember which
is which. Now you must attach all the red alligator clip (Ring) to the "R"
(Ring) terminal. Attach the green alligator clip (Tip) to the "T" (Tip)
Note: If instead of a dial tone you hear nothing, adjust the alligator clips so
that they are not touching each other terminals. Also make sure they are firmly
attached. By this time you should hear a dial tone. Dial ANI to find out the
number you are using (you wouldn't want to use your own). Here are some
practical applications:
Long distance, static free, free fone calls to phriends
Dialing direct to Alliance Teleconferencing (also no static)
Phucking people over
Bothering the operator at little risk to yourself
Blue Boxing with greatly reduced chance of getting caught
Anything at all you want, since you are on an extension of that line
To be most effective, first attach the Beige Box then your phone. This
eliminates the static caused by connecting the box, therefore reducing the
potential suspicion of your victim. When eavesdropping, it is always best to be
neither seen nor heard. If you hear someone dialing out, do not panic; but
rather hang up, wait, and pick up the receiver again. The person will either
have hung up or tried to complete their call again. If the latter is true, then
listen in, and perhaps you will find information worthy of blackmail! If you
would like to know who you are listening to, after dialing ANI, pull a CN/A on
the number.
Dialing Long Distance
This section is self explanatory, but don't forget to dial a "1" before the NPA.
Dialing Direct to Alliance Teleconferencing
Simply dial 0-700-456-1000 and you will get instructions from there. I prefer
this method over PBX's, since PBX's often have poor reception and are more
difficult to come by.
Phucking People Over
This is a very large topic of discussion. Just by using the other topics
described, you can create a large phone bill for the person (they will not have
to pay for it, but it will be a big hassle for them). In addition, since you
are an extension of the person's line, you can leave your phone off the hook,
and they will not be able to make or receive calls. This can be extremely nasty
because no one would expect the cause of the problem.
Bothering the Operator
This is also self explanatory and can provide hours of entertainment. Simply
ask her things that are offensive or you would not like traced to your line.
This also corresponds to the previously described section, Phucking People
Over. After all, guess who's line it gets traced to?
Blue Boxing
See a file on Blue Boxing for more details. This is an especially nice feature
if you live in an ESS-equipped prefix, since the calls are, once again, not
traced to your line...
Overuse of the Beige Box may cause suspicions within the Gestapo, and result in
legal problems. Therefor, I would recommend you:
Choose a secluded spot to do your Beige Boxing,
Use more than one output device
Keep a low profile (i.e., do not post under your real name on a public BBS
concerning your accomplishments)
In order to make sure the enemy has not been inside your output device, I
recommend you place a piece of transparent tape over the opening of your output
device. Therefor, if it is opened in your absence, the tape will be displaced
and you will be aware of the fact that someone has intruded on your territory.
Now, imagine the possibilities: a $2000 dollar phone bill for that special
person, 976 numbers galore, even harassing the operator at no risk to you!
Think of it as walking into an enemies house, and using their phone to your
heart's content.
9. How to make a CO bomb by the Jolly Roger
You will have to use up the cartridge first by either shooting it or whatever.
With a nail, force a hole bigger so as to allow the powder and wick to fit in
easily. Fill the cartridge with black powder and pack it in there real good by
tapping the bottom of the cartridge on a hard surface (I said TAP not SLAM!).
Insert a fuse. I recommend a good water-proof cannon fuse, or an m-80 type fuse,
but firecracker fuses work, if you can run like a black man runs from the cops
after raping a white girl.) Now, light it and run like hell! It does wonders
for a row of mailboxes (like the ones in apartment complexes), a car (place
under the gas tank), a picture window (place on window sill), a phone booth
(place right under the phone), or any other devious place. This thing throws
shrapnel, and can make quit a mess!!
10. Thermite II by Jolly Roger
Thermite is nasty shit. Here is a good and easy way to make it. The first step
is to get some iron-oxide (which is RUST!). Here is a good way to make large
quantities in a short time:
Get a DC converter like the one used on a train set. Cut the connector off,
separate the wires, and strip them both.
Now you need a jar of water with a tablespoon or so of sodium chloride
(which is SALT!) added to it. This makes the water conductive.
Now insert both wires into the mixture (I am assuming you plugged the
converter in...) and let them sit for five minutes. One of them will start
bubbling more than the other. This is the POSITIVE(+) wire. If you do not do
this test right, the final product will be the opposite (chemically) of
rust, which is RUST ACID. You have no use for this here (although it IS
Anyway, put the nail tied to the positive wire into the jar. Now put the
negative wire in the other end. Now let it sit overnight and in the morning
scrape the rust off of the nail & repeat until you got a bunch of rust on
the bottom of the glass. Be generous with your rust collection. If you are
going through the trouble of making thermite, you might as well make a lot,
Now remove the excess water and pour the crusty solution onto a cookie
sheet. Dry it in the sun for a few hours, or inside overnight. It should be
an orange-brown color (although I have seen it in many different colors!
Sometimes the color gets fucked up, what can I say... but it is still iron
Crush the rust into a fine powder and heat it in a cast-iron pot until it is
red. Now mix the pure iron oxide with pure aluminum filings which can be
bought or filed down by hand from an aluminum tube or bar. The ratio or iron
oxide to aluminum is 8 grams to 3 grams.
Congrats! You have just made THERMITE! Now, to light it...
Thermite requires a LOT of heat (more than a blow torch!) to ignite.
However, magnesium ribbon (which is sort of hard to find.. call around) will
do the trick. It takes the heat from the burning magnesium to light the
Now when you see your victim's car, pour a fifty-cent sized pile onto his
hood, stick the ribbon in it, and light the ribbon with the blow torch. Now
chuckle as you watch it burn through the hood, the block, the axle, and the
pavement. BE CAREFUL! The ideal mixtures can vaporize CARBON STEEL! Another
idea is to use thermite to get into pay phone cash boxes.
11. Touch Explosives by the Jolly Roger
This is sort of a mild explosive, but it can be quite dangerous in large
quantities. To make touch explosive (such as that found in a snap-n-pop, but
more powerful), use this recipe:
Mix iodine crystals into ammonia until the iodine crystals will not dissolve
into the ammonia anymore. Pour off the excess ammonia and dry out the
crystals on a baking sheet the same way as you dried the thermite (in other
words, just let it sit overnight!).
Be careful now because these crystals are now your touch explosive.
Carefully wrap a bunch in paper (I mean carefully! Friction sets 'em off!)
and throw them around.. pretty loud, huh? They are fun to put on someone's
chair. Add a small fish sinker to them and they can be thrown a long
distance (good for crowds, football games, concerts, etc.)
12. Letter Bombs by The Jolly Roger
You will first have to make a mild version of thermite. Use my recipe, but
substitute iron fillings for rust.
Mix the iron with aluminum fillings in a ratio of 75% aluminum to 25% iron.
This mixture will burn violently in a closed space (such as an envelope).
This bring us to our next ingredient...
Go to the post office and buy an insulated (padded) envelope. You know, the
type that is double layered. Separate the layers and place the mild thermite
in the main section, where the letter would go. Then place magnesium powder
in the outer layer. There is your bomb!!
Now to light it... this is the tricky part and hard to explain. Just keep
experimenting until you get something that works. The fuse is just that
touch explosive I have told you about in another one of my anarchy files.
You might want to wrap it like a long cigarette and then place it at the top
of the envelope in the outer layer (on top of the powdered magnesium). When
the touch explosive is torn or even squeezed hard it will ignite the
powdered magnesium (sort of a flash light) and then it will burn the mild
thermite. If the thermite didn't blow up, it would at least burn the fuck
out of your enemy (it does wonders on human flesh!).
13. Paint Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To make a pain bomb you simply need a metal pain can with a refastenable lid, a
nice bright color paint (green, pink, purple, or some gross color is perfect!),
and a quantity of dry ice. Place the paint in the can and then drop the dry ice
in. Quickly place the top on and then run like hell! With some testing you can
time this to a science. It depends on the ratio of dry ice to paint to the size
of the can to how full it is. If you are really pissed off at someone, you
could place it on their doorstep, knock on the door, and then run!! Paint will
fly all over the place!!
14. Ways to send a car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
There are 1001 ways to destroy a car but I am going to cover only the ones that
are the most fun (for you), the most destructive (for them), and the hardest to
trace (for the cops).
Place thermite on the hood, light it, and watch it burn all the way through
the pavement!
Tape a CO bomb to the hood, axle, gas tank, wheel, muffler, etc.
Put a tampon, dirt, sugar (this one is good!), a ping pong ball, or just
about anything that will dissolve in the gas tank.
Put potatoes, rocks, bananas, or anything that will fit, into the tailpipe.
Use a broom handle to stuff 'em up into the tailpipe.
Put a long rag into the gas tank and light it...
Steal a key, copy it, replace it, and then steal the stereo.
Break into the car. Cut a thin metal ruler into a shape like this:
Slide it into the outside window and keep pulling it back up until you catch
the lock cable which should unlock the door. This device is also called a SLIM
JIM. Now get the stereo, equalizer, radar detector, etc. Now destroy the
inside. (A sharp knife does wonders on the seats!)
15. Do you hate school? by The Jolly Roger
One of my favorites for getting out of a class or two is to call in a bomb
threat. Tell 'em that it is in a locker. Then they have to check them all,
whilst you can slip away for an hour or two. You can even place a fake bomb
(in any locker but YOURS!). They might cancel school for a week while they
investigate (of course, you will probably have to make it up in the summer).
Get some pure potassium or pure sodium, put it in a capsule, and flush it
down the toilet (smells awful! Stinks up the whole school!).
Use a smoke grenade in the hallway.
Steal the computer passwords & keys. Or steal the 80 column cards inside if
they are (gag) IBM.
Make friends with student assistants and have them change your grades when
the teachers hand in their bubble sheets for the report cards.
Spit your gum out on the carpet in the library or whatever and grind it into
the carpet. Watch the janitors cry!
Draw on lockers or spraypaint on the building that the principal is a
Stick a potato in the tailpipe of the principal's car.
16. Phone related vandalism by the Jolly Roger
If you live where there are underground lines then you will be able to ruin
someone's phone life very easily. All you must do is go to their house and find
the green junction box that interfaces their line (and possibly some others in
the neighborhood) with the major lines. These can be found just about anywhere
but they are usually underneath the nearest phone pole. Take a socket wrench
and loosen the nut on the right. Then just take clippers or a sledge hammer or
a bomb and destroy the insides and pull up their phone cable. Now cut it into
segments so it can't be fixed but must be replaced (There is a week's worth of
work for 'em!!)
17. Highway radar jamming by The Jolly Roger
Most drivers wanting to make better time on the open road will invest in one of
those expensive radar detectors. However, this device will not work against a
gun type radar unit in which the radar signal is not present until the cop has
your car in his sights and pulls the trigger. Then it is TOO LATE for you to
slow down. A better method is to continuously jam any signal with a radar
signal of your own. I have tested this idea with the cooperation of a local cop
and found that his unit reads random numbers when my car approached him. It is
suprisingly easy to make a low power radar transmitter. A nifty little
semiconductor called a Gunn Diode will generate microwaves when supplied with
the 5 to 10 volt DC and enclosed in the correct size cavity (resonator). An 8
to 3 terminal regulator can be used to get this voltage from a car's 12v
system. However, the correct construction and tuning of the cavity is difficult
without good microwave measurement equipment. Police radars commonly operate on
the K band at 22 GHz. Or more often on the X band at 1025 GHz. most microwave
intruder alarms and motion detectors (mounted over automatic doors in
supermarkets & banks, etc.) contain a Gunn type transmitter/receiver
combination that transmits about 10 kilowatts at 1025 GHz. These units work
perfectly as jammers. If you cannot get one locally, write to Microwave
Associates in Burlington, Massachusetts and ask them for info on 'Gunnplexers'
for ham radio use. When you get the unit it may be mounted in a plastic box on
the dash or in a weather-proof enclosure behind the PLASTIC grille. Switch on
the power when on an open highway. The unit will not jam radar to the side or
behind the car so don't go speeding past the radar trap. An interesting
phenomena you will notice is that the drivers who are in front of you who are
using detectors will hit their brakes as you approach large metal signs and
bridges. Your signal is bouncing off of these objects and triggering their
radar detectors!
PS If you are interested in this sort of thing, get a copy of POPULAR
COMMUNICATIONS. The ads in there tell you where you can get all kinds of info
on all kinds of neat equipment for all kinds of neat things!
18. Smoke Bombs by the Jolly Roger
Here is the recipe for one hell of a smoke bomb!
4 parts sugar
6 parts potassium nitrate (Salt Peter)
Heat this mixture over a LOW flame until it melts, stirring well. Pour it into
a future container and, before it solidifies, imbed a few matches into the
mixture to use as fuses. One pound of this stuff will fill up a whole block
with thick, white smoke!
19. Mail Box Bombs by the Jolly Roger
1. Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate)
2. Small amount of sugar
3. Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw
on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small
explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the
air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to
the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
20. The easiest way to hot-wire cars by the Jolly Roger
Get in the car. Look under the dash. If it's enclosed, forget it unless you
want to cut through it. If you do, do it near the ignition. Once you get behind
or near the ignition look for two red wires. In older cars red was the standard
color, if not, look for two matched pairs. When you find them, cross them and
take off!
21. How to make Napalm by the Jolly Roger
Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.
Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't eat anymore.
You should have a sticky syrup.
Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused stuff lasts a
long time!
22. How to make a fertilizer bomb by The Jolly Roger
Fertilizer (the chemical kind, GREEN THUMB or ORCHO)
Diesel fuel
Make a pouch out of the newspaper and put some fertilizer in it. Then put
cotton on top. Soak the cotton with fuel. Then light and run like you have
never ran before! This blows up 500 square feet so don't do it in an alley!!
23. Tennis Ball Bombs by The Jolly Roger
Strike anywhere matches
A tennis ball
A nice sharp knife
Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff
all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape
over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see
a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
24. Diskette Bombs by The Jolly Roger
You need:
A disk
White or blue kitchen matches (they MUST be these colors!)
Clear nail polish
1. Carefully open up the diskette (3" disks are best for this!)
2. Remove the cotton covering from the inside.
3. Scrape a lot of match powder into a bowl (use a wooden scraper, metal might
spark the matchpowder!)
4. After you have a lot, spread it evenly on the disk.
5. Using the nail polish, spread it over the match mixture
6. Let it dry
7. Carefully put the diskette back together and use the nail polish to seal it
shut on the inside (where it came apart).
When that disk is in a drive, the drive head attempts to read the disk, which
UP!!). Let the fuckhead try and fix THAT!!!
25. Unlisted Phone Numbers by The Jolly Roger
There are a couple of different ways of doing this. Let's see if this one will
help: Every city has one or more offices dedicated to assigning numbers to the
telephone wire pairs. These offices are called DPAC offices and are available
to service reps who are installing or repairing phones. To get the DPAC number,
a service rep would call the customer service number for billing information in
the town that the number is located in that he is trying to get the unlisted
number of. (Got that?) The conversation would go something like this: "Hi,
Amarillo, this is Joe from Anytown business office, I need the DPAC number for
the south side of town." This info is usually passed out with no problems,
so... if the first person you call doesn't have it, try another. REMEMBER, no
one has ANY IDEA who the hell you are when you are talking on the phone, so you
can be anyone you damn well please! When you call the DPAC number, just tell
them that you need a listing for either the address that you have, or the name.
going to make a habit of chasing numbers down, you might want to check into
getting a criss-cross directory, which lists phone numbers by their addresses.
It costs a couple hundred bucks, but it is well worth it if you have to chase
more than one or two numbers down!
26. Fuses by The Jolly Roger
You would be surprised how many files are out there that use what falls under
the category of a "fuse." They assume that you just have a few lying around, or
know where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country, fuses are extremely
hard to come by... so this file tells you how to make your own. Both fuses
presented here are fairly simple to make, and are fairly reliable.
SLOW BURNING FUSE - 2 inches per minute
Materials needed:
Cotton string or 3 shoelaces
Potassium Nitrate or Potassium Chlorate
Granulated sugar
1. Wash the cotton string or shoelaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse with
fresh water
2. Mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1 part granulated sugar
2 parts hot water
1. Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution
2. Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry
3. Check the burn rate to see how long it actually takes!!
FAST BURNING FUSE - 40 inches per minute
Materials needed:
Soft cotton string
Fine black powder (empty a few shotgun shells!)
Shallow dish or pan
1. Moisten powder to form a paste.
2. Twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together.
3. Rub paste into string and allow to dry.
4. Check the burn rate!!!
27. How to make Potassium Nitrate by The Jolly Roger
Potassium Nitrate is an ingredient in making fuses, among other things. Here is
how you make it:
Materials needed:
3 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material
cup of wood ashes
Bucket or other similar container about 4-5 gallons in volume
2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than the bottom of the
Shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as the bucket
Shallow, heat resistant container
2 gallons of water
Something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket
1 gallon of any type of alcohol
A heat source
Paper & tape
1. Punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that the metal is
"puckered" outward from the bottom.
2. Spread cloth over the holes from the bottom.
3. Place wood ashes on the cloth. Spread it out so that it covers the entire
cloth and has about the same thickness.
4. Place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes.
5. Place the dirt or other material in the bucket.
6. Place the bucket over the shallow container. NOTE: It may need support on
the bottom so that the holes on the bottom are not blocked.
7. Boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT pour it all at
once, as this will clog the filter on the bottom.
8. Allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on the bottom.
9. Be sure that the water goes through ALL of the earth!
10. Allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so.
11. Carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard the sludge in the
12. Boil this liquid over a fire for at least two hours. Small grains of salt
will form - scoop these out with the paper as they form.
13. When the liquid has boiled down to its original volume let it sit.
14. After hour, add equal volume of the alcohol; when this mixture is poured
through paper, small white crystals appear. This is the potassium nitrate.
1. Redissolve crystals in small amount of boiling water.
2. Remove any crystals that appear.
3. Pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated solution to dryness.
4. Spread out crystals and allow to dry.
28. Exploding Lightbulbs by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
Lightbulb (100w)
Socket (duh...)
cup soap chips
Blackpowder! (open some shotgun shells!)
cup kerosene or gasoline
Adhesive tape
Lighter or small blowtorch
Procedure for a simple exploding lightbulb:
1. Drill a small hole in the top of the bulb near the threads!
2. Carefully pour the blackpowder into the hole. Use enough so that it touches
the filament!
3. Insert into socket as normal (make sure the light is off or else YOU will be
the victim!!)
4. Get the hell out!!
Procedure for a Napalm Bulb:
1. Heat kerosene/gasoline in a double boiler.
2. Melt soap chips, stirring slowly.
3. Put somewhere and allow to cool.
4. Heat the threads of the bulb VERY carefully to melt the glue. Remove
threads, slowly drawing out the filament. Do NOT break the cheap electrical
igniters and/or the filament or this won't work!!
5. Pour the liquid into the bulb, and slowly lower the filament back down into
the bulb. Make sure the filament is dipped into the fluid.
6. Re-glue the threads back on. Insert it into a socket frequently used by the
victim and get the hell out!!
When the victim flips the switch, he will be in for a BIG surprise!
29. Under water igniters by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
Pack of 10 silicon diodes. (Available at Radio Shack. You will know you got
the right ones if they are very, very small glass objects!)
Pack of matches
1 candle
1. Light the candle and allow a pool of molten wax to form in the top.
2. Take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against the
head. Bend the diode pins around the matchhead so that one wraps in an
upward direction and then sticks out to the side. Do the same with the other
wire, but in a downward direction. The diodes should now be hugging the
matchhead, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!
3. Dip the matchhead in wax to give it a water-proof coat. These work
4. Repeat to make as many as you want.
How to use them:
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6v battery, the diode reaches what
is called breakdown voltage. When most electrical components reach this
voltage, they usually produce great amounts of heat and light, while quickly
melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ignite a matchhead. These
are recommended for use underwater, where most other igniters refuse to work.
30. Home-brew blast cannon by The Jolly Roger
Materials needed:
1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 inches in diameter.
1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter.
1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe.
5 feet of bellwire.
1 SPST rocker switch.
16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery.
15v relay (get this at Radio Shack).
Electrical Tape.
One free afternoon.
Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends.
Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small
pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw
together easily.
Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it
to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here
!lighter!!<---metal lever!!
Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the
lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish
to be able to fire more rapidly.
Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch.
Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the
bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in
the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top.
Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and
the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller
tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw
a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
2--------------/<--the center object is the metal finger inside the relay
Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4),
and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from
the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get
the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you
should see some tiny little sparks.
Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the
back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon
barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by
flipping the switch.
Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now
ready for the first trial-run!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just
right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass
if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some
other protective clothing (trust the Jolly Roger! You are going to need it!).
Hold the
trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and
the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through or
plywood at 25 feet.
31. Chemical Equivalency list by The Jolly Roger
Acacia............................................ ....................Gum Arabic
Acetic Acid.............................................. ................Vinegar
Aluminum Oxide............................................. ...............Alumia
Aluminum Potassium Sulphate.......................................... .......Alum
Aluminum Sulfate........................................... .................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate......................................... ............Hartshorn
Ammonium Hydroxide......................................... ..............Ammonia
Ammonium Nitrate........................................... ...........Salt Peter
Ammonium Oleate............................................ .........Ammonia Soap
Amylacetate....................................... ....................Banana Oil
Barium Sulfide........................................... ..............Black Ash
Carbon Carbinate......................................... ..................Chalk
Carbontetrachloride............................... ................Cleaning Fluid
Calcium Hypochloride...................................... ......Bleaching Powder
Calcium Oxide............................................. ..................Lime
Calcium Sulfate........................................... ......Plaster of Paris
Carbonic Acid.............................................. ..............Seltzer
Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide..................... .................Ammonium Salt
Ethylinedichloride................................ ...................Dutch Fluid
Ferric Oxide............................................. ..............Iron Rust
Furfuraldehyde.................................... ......................Bran Oil
Glucose........................................... ....................Corn Syrup
Graphite.......................................... ...................Pencil Lead
Hydrochloric Acid.............................................. ....Muriatic Acid
Hydrogen Peroxide.......................................... .............Peroxide
Lead Acetate........................................... ............Sugar of Lead
Lead Tero-oxide............................................. ............Red Lead
Magnesium Silicate.......................................... ................Talc
Magnesium Sulfate........................................... ..........Epsom Salt
Methylsalicylate.................................. ..............Winter Green Oil
Naphthalene....................................... .....................Mothballs
Phenol............................................ .................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate....................................... .....Cream of Tarter
Potassium Chromium Sulfate........................................... .Chromealum
Potassium Nitrate........................................... ..........Salt Peter
Sodium Oxide............................................. ...................Sand
Sodium Bicarbonate....................................... ............Baking Soda
Sodium Borate............................................ ..................Borax
Sodium Carbonate......................................... ...........Washing Soda
Sodium Chloride.......................................... ...................Salt
Sodium Hydroxide......................................... ....................Lye
Sodium Silicate.......................................... ..................Glass
Sodium Sulfate........................................... .........Glauber's Salt
Sodium Thiosulfate....................................... ....Photographer's Hypo
Sulfuric Acid.............................................. .........Battery Acid
Sucrose........................................... ....................Cane Sugar
Zinc Chloride.......................................... ...........Tinner's Fluid
Zinc Sulfate........................................... ............White Vitriol
32. Phone Taps by The Jolly Roger
Here is some info on phone taps. In this file is a schematic for a simple
wiretap & instructions for hooking up a small tape recorder control relay to
the phone line.
First, I will discuss taps a little. There are many different types of taps.
There are transmitters, wired taps, and induction taps to name a few. Wired and
wireless transmitters must be physically connected to the line before they will
do any good. Once a wireless tap is connected to the line, it can transmit all
conversations over a limited reception range. The phones in the house can even
be modifies to pick up conversations in the room and transmit them too! These
taps are usually powered off of the phone line, but can have an external power
source. You can get more information on these taps by getting an issue of
Popular Communications and reading through the ads. Wired taps, on the other
hand, need no power source, but a wire must be run from the line to the
listener or to a transmitter. There are obvious advantages of wireless taps
over wired ones. There is one type of wireless tap that looks like a normal
telephone mike. All you have to do is replace the original mike with this and
it will transmit all conversations! There is also an exotic type of wired tap
known as the 'Infinity Transmitter' or 'Harmonica Bug'. In order to hook one of
these, it must be installed inside the phone. When someone calls the tapped
phone & *before* it rings and blows a whistle over the line, the transmitter
picks up the phone via a relay. The mike on the phone is activated so that the
caller can hear all of the conversations in the room. There is a sweep tone
test at 415/BUG-1111 which can be used to detect one of these taps. If one of
these is on your line & the test # sends the correct tone, you will hear a
click. Induction taps have one big advantage over taps that must be physically
wired to the phone. They do not have to be touching the phone in order to pick
up the conversation. They work on the same principle as the little suction-cup
tape recorder mikes that you can get at Radio Shack. Induction mikes can be
hooked up to a transmitter or be wired.
Here is an example of industrial espionage using the phone:
A salesman walks into an office & makes a phone call. He fakes the
conversation, but when he hangs up he slips some foam rubber cubes into the
cradle. The called party can still hear all conversations in the room. When
someone picks up the phone, the cubes fall away unnoticed.
A tap can also be used on a phone to overhear what your modem is doing when you
are war-dialing, hacking, or just plain calling a bbs.
Here is the schematic:
Cap ^ )!(
^ 100K
! <Input
The 100K pot is used for volume. It should be on its highest (least resistance)
setting if you hook a speaker across the output. but it should be set on its
highest resistance for a tape recorder or amplifier. You may find it necessary
to add another 10 - 40K. The capacitor should be around .47 MFD. It's only
purpose is to prevent the relay in the phone from tripping & thinking that you
have the phone off of the hook. the audio output transformer is available at
Radio Shack. (part # 273-138E for input). The red & the white wires go to the
output device. You may want to experiment with the transformer for the best
output. Hooking up a tape recorder relay is easy. Just hook one of the phone
wires (usually red) to the end of one of the relay & the other end just loop
around. This bypasses it. It should look like this:
(part #275-004 from Radio Shack works fine)
If you think that you line is tapped, the first thing to do is to physically
inspect the line yourself ESPECIALLY the phones. You can get mike replacements
with bug detectors built in. However, I would not trust them too much. It is
too easy to get a wrong reading.
For more info:
ELECTRONIC EAVESDROPPING & PRIVACY INVASION. I do not remember who this one is
from... you might want to try Paladin Press.
33. How to make a landmine by The Jolly Roger
First, you need to get a push-button switch. Take the wires of it and connect
one to a nine volt battery connector and the other to a solar igniter (used for
launching model rockets). A very thin piece of stereo wire will usually do the
trick if you are desperate, but I recommend the igniter. Connect the other wire
of the nine-volt battery to one end of the switch. Connect a wire from the
switch to the other lead on the solar igniter.
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
solar igniter
Now connect the explosive (pipe bomb, m-80, CO bomb, etc.) to the igniter by
attaching the fuse to the igniter (seal it with scotch tape). Now dig a hole;
not too deep but enough to cover all of the materials. Think about what
direction your enemy will be coming from and plant the switch, but leave the
button visible (not TOO visible!). Plant the explosive about 3-5 feet away from
the switch because there will be a delay in the explosion that depends on how
short your wick is, and, if a homemade wick is being used, its burning speed.
But if you get it right... and your enemy is close enough.........
34. A different kind of Molitov Cocktail by The Jolly Roger
Here is how you do it:
1. Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full.
2. Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight.
3. Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have to force
it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the bottle.
4. Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it hits the
pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine and
gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
35. Phone Systems Tutorial by The Jolly Roger
To start off, we will discuss the dialing procedures for domestic as well as
international dialing. We will also take a look at the telephone numbering plan.
North American Numbering Plan
In North America, the telephone numbering plan is as follows:
3 digit Numbering Plan Area (NPA) code , i.e., area code
7 digit telephone number consisting of a 3 digit Central Office (CO) code
plus a 4 digit station number
These 10 digits are called the network address or destination code. It is in
the format of:
Area Code Telephone #
--------- -----------
Where: N = a digit from 2 to 9
* = the digit 0 or 1
X = a digit from 0 to 9
Area Codes
Check your telephone book or the separate listing of area codes found on many
bbs's. Here are the special area codes (SAC's):
510 - TWX (USA)
610 - TWX (Canada)
700 - New Service
710 - TWX (USA)
800 - WATS
810 - TWX (USA)
900 - DIAL-IT Services
910 - TWX (USA)
The other area codes never cross state lines, therefore each state must have at
least one exclusive NPA code. When a community is split by a state line, the CO
numbers are often interchangeable (i.e., you can dial the same number from two
different area codes).
TWX (Telex II) consists of 5 teletype-writer area codes. They are owned by
Western Union. These SAC's may only be reached via other TWX machines. These
run at 110 baud (last I checked! They are most likely faster now!). Besides the
TWX numbers, these machines are routed to normal telephone numbers. TWX
machines always respond with an answerback. For example, WU's FYI TWX # is
(910) 279-5956. The answerback for this service is "WU FYI MAWA".
If you don't want to but a TWX machine, you can still send TWX messages using
Easylink [800/325-4112]. However you are gonna have to hack your way onto this
700 is currently used by AT&T as a call forwarding service. It is targeted
towards salesmen on the run. To understand how this works, I'll explain it with
an example. Let's say Joe Q. Salespig works for AT&T security and he is on the
run chasing a phreak around the country who royally screwed up an important
COSMOS system. Let's say that Joe's 700 # is (700) 382-5968. Every time Joe
goes to a new hotel (or most likely SLEAZY MOTEL), he dials a special 700 #,
enters a code, and the number where he is staying. Now, if his boss received
some important info, all he would do is dial (700) 382-5968 and it would ring
wherever Joe last programmed it to. Neat, huh?
This SAC is one of my favorites since it allows for toll free calls. INWARD
WATS (INWATS), or Inward Wide Area Telecommunications Service is the 800
numbers that we are all familiar with. 800 numbers are set up in service areas
or bands. There are 6 of these. Band 6 is the largest and you can call a band 6
# from anywhere in the US except the state where the call is terminated (that
is why most companies have one 800 number for the country and then another one
for their state.) Band 5 includes the 48 contiguous states. All the way down to
band 1 which includes only the states contiguous to that one. Therefore, less
people can reach a band 1 INWATS number than a band 6 number.
Intrastate INWATS #'s (i.e., you can call it from only 1 state) always have a 2
as the last digit in the exchange (i.e., 800-NX2-XXXX). The NXX on 800 numbers
represent the area where the business is located. For example, a number
beginning with 800-431 would terminate at a NY CO.
800 numbers always end up in a hunt series in a CO. This means that it tries
the first number allocated to the company for their 800 lines; if this is busy,
it will try the next number, etc. You must have a minimum of 2 lines for each
800 number. For example, Travelnet uses a hunt series. If you dial (800) 521-
8400, it will first try the number associated with 8400; if it is busy it will
go to the next available port, etc. INWATS customers are billed by the number
of hours of calls made to their number.
OUTWATS (OUTWARD WATS): OUTWATS are for making outgoing calls only. Large
companies use OUTWATS since they receive bulk-rate discounts. Since OUTWATS
numbers cannot have incoming calls, they are in the format of:
(800) *XXX-XXXX
Where * is the digit 0 or 1 (or it may even be designated by a letter) which
cannot be dialed unless you box the call. The *XX identifies the type of
service and the areas that the company can call.
This DIAL-IT SAC is a nationwide dial-it service. It is use for taking
television polls and other stuff. The first minute currently costs an
outrageous 50-85 cents and each additional minute costs 35-85 cents. He'll take
in a lot of revenue this way!
Dial (900) 555-1212 to find out what is currently on this service.
These identify the switching office where the call is to be routed. The
following CO codes are reserved nationwide:
555 - directory assistance
844 - time. These are now in!
936 - weather the 976 exchange
950 - future services
958 - plant test
959 - plant test
970 - plant test (temporary)
976 - DIAL-IT services
Also, the 3 digit ANI & ringback #'s are regarded as plant test and are thus
reserved. These numbers vary from area to area.
You cannot dial a 0 or 1 as the first digit of the exchange code (unless using
a blue box!). This is due to the fact that these exchanges (000-199) contains
all sorts of interesting shit such as conference #'s, operators, test #'s, etc.
Here are the services that are currently used by the 950 exchange:
1000 - SPC
1022 - MCI Execunet
1033 - US Telephone
1044 - Allnet
1066 - Lexitel
1088 - SBS Skyline
These SCC's (Specialized Common Carriers) are free from fortress phones! Also,
the 950 exchange will probably be phased out with the introduction of Equal
Plant Tests:
These include ANI, Ringback, and other various tests.
Dial 976-1000 to see what is currently on the service. Also, many bbs's have
listings of these numbers.
N11 codes:
Bell is trying to phase out some of these, but they still exist in most areas.
011 - international dialing prefix
211 - coin refund operator
411 - directory assistance
611 - repair service
811 - business office
International Dialing
With International Dialing, the world has been divided into 9 numbering zones.
To make an international call, you must first dial: International Prefix +
Country code + National number.
In North America, the international dialing prefix is 011 for station-tostation
calls. If you can dial International numbers directly in your area then
you have International Direct Distance Dialing (IDDD).
The country code, which varies from 1 to 3 digits, always has the world
numbering zone as the first digit. For example, the country code for the United
Kingdom is 44, thus it is in world numbering zone 4. Some boards may contain a
complete listing of other country codes, but here I give you a few:
1 - North America (US, Canada, etc.)
20 - Egypt
258 - Mozambique
34 - Spain
49 - Germany
52 - Mexico (southern portion)
7 - USSR
81 - Japan
98 - Iran (call & hassle those bastards!)
If you call from an area other than North America, the format is generally the
same. For example, let's say that you wanted to call the White House from
Switzerland to tell the president that his numbered bank account is overdrawn
(it happens, you know!). First you would dial 00 (the SWISS international
dialing prefix), then 1 (the US country code), followed by 202-456-1414 (the
national number for the White House. Just ask for Georgy and give him the bad
Also, country code 87 is reserved for Maritime mobile service, i.e., calling
871 - Marisat (Atlantic)
871 - Marisat (Pacific)
872 - Marisat (Indian)
International Switching:
In North America there are currently 7 no. 4 ESS's that perform the duty of ISC
(Inter-nation Switching Centers). All international calls dialed from numbering
zone 1 will be routed through one of these "gateway cities". They are:
182 - White Plains, NY
183 - New York, NY
184 - Pittsburgh, PA
185 - Orlando, Fl
186 - Oakland, CA
187 - Denver, CO
188 - New York, NY
The 18X series are operator routing codes for overseas access (to be further
discussed with blue boxes). All international calls use a signaling service
called CCITT. It is an international standard for signaling.
OK.. there you go for now! If you want to read more about this, read part two
which is the next file #36 in the Jolly Roger's cookbook!
36. Phone Systems Tutorial part II by The Jolly Roger
Part II will deal with the various types of operators, office hierarchy, &
switching equipment.
There are many types of operators in the network and the more common ones will
be discussed.
TSPS Operator:
The TSPS [(Traffic Service Position System) as opposed to This Shitty Phone
Service] Operator is probably the bitch (or bastard, for the female
liberationists out there) that most of us are used to having to deal with. Here
are his/her responsibilities:
1. Obtaining billing information for calling card or third number calls
2. Identifying called customer on person-to-person calls.
3. Obtaining acceptance of charges on collect calls.
4. Identifying calling numbers. This only happens when the calling number is
not automatically recorded by CAMA(Centralized Automatic Message Accounting)
& forwarded from the local office. This could be caused by equipment
failures (ANIF- Automatic Number Identification Failure) or if the office is
not equipped for CAMA (ONI- Operator Number Identification).
I once had an equipment failure happen to me & the TSPS operator came on and
said, "What number are you calling FROM?" Out of curiosity, I gave her the
number to my CO, she thanked me & then I was connected to a conversation that
appeared to be between a frame man & his wife. Then it started ringing the
party I wanted to originally call & everyone phreaked out (excuse the pun). I
immediately dropped this dual line conference!
You should not mess with the TSPS operator since she KNOWS which number that
you are calling from. Your number will show up on a 10-digit LED read-out (ANI
board). She also knows whether or not you are at a fortress phone & she can
trace calls quite readily! Out of all of the operators, she is one of the MOST
INWARD operator:
This operator assists your local TSPS ("0") operating connecting calls. She
will never question a call as long as the call is within HER SERVICE AREA. She
can only be reached via other operators or by a blue box. From a blue box, you
would dial KP+NPA+121+ST for the INWARD operator that will help you connect any
calls within that NPA only. (Blue Boxing will be discussed in a future file).
This is the operator that you are connected to when you dial: 411 or NPA-555-
1212. She does not readily know where you are calling from. She does not have
access to unlisted numbers, but she DOES know if an unlisted # exists for a
certain listing.
There is also a directory assistance operator for deaf people who use
teletypewriters. If your modem can transfer BAUDOT [(45 baud). One modem that
I know of that will do this is the Apple Cat acoustic or the Atari 830 acoustic
modem. Yea I know they are hard to find... but if you want to do this.. look
around!) then you can call him/her up and have an interesting conversation. The
number is: 800-855-1155. They use the standard Telex abbreviations such as GA
for go ahead. they tend to be nicer and will talk longer than your regular
operators. Also, they are more vulnerable into being talked out of information
through the process of "social engineering" as Chesire Catalyst would put it.
Unfortunately, they do not have access to much. I once bullshitted with one of
these operators a while back and I found out that there are 2 such DA offices
that handle TTY. One is in Philadelphia and the other is in California. They
have approx. 7 operators each. Most of the TTY operators think that their job is
boring (based on an official "BIOC poll"). They also feel that they are underpaid.
They actually call up a regular DA number to process your request (sorry,
no fancy computers!)
Other operators have access to their own DA by dialing KP+NPA+131+ST (MF).
CN/A operators:
CN/A Operators are operators that do exactly the opposite of what directory
assistance operators are for. In my experience, these operators know more than
the DA op's do & they are more susceptible to "social engineering." It is
possible to bullshit a CN/A operator for the NON-PUB DA number (i.e., you give
them the name & they give you the unlisted number. See the article on unlisted
numbers in this cookbook for more info about them.). This is due to the fact
that they assume that you are a fellow company employee. Unfortunately, the
AT&T breakup has resulted in the break-up of a few NON-PUB DA numbers and
policy changes in CN/A.
The intercept operator is the one that you are connected to when there are not
enough recordings available to tell you that the number has been disconnected
or changed. She usually says, "What number you calling?" with a foreign accent.
This is the lowest operator lifeform. Even though they don't know where you are
calling from, it is a waste or your time to try to verbally abuse them since
they usually understand very little English anyway.
Incidentally, a few area DO have intelligent INTERCEPT Operators.
OTHER Operators:
And then there are the: Mobile, Ship-to-Shore, Conference, Marine Verify,
"Leave Word and Call Back", Rout & Rate (KP+800+141+1212+ST), & other special
operators who have one purpose or another in the network.
Problems with an Operator:
Ask to speak to their supervisor... or better yet the Group Chief (who is the
highest ranking official in any office) who is the equivalent of the Madame in
a whorehouse.
By the way, some CO's that will allow you to dial a 0 or 1 as the 4th digit,
will also allow you to call special operators & other fun Tel. Co. numbers
without a blue box. This is very rare, though! For example, 212-121-1111 will
get you a NY Inward Operator.
Office Hierarchy
Every switching office in North America (the NPA system), is assigned an office
name and class. There are five classes of offices numbered 1 through 5. Your CO
is most likely a class 5 or end office. All long-distance (Toll) calls are
switched by a toll office which can be a class 4, 3, 2, or 1 office. There is
also a class 4X office called an intermediate point. The 4X office is a digital
one that can have an unattended exchange attached to it (known as a Remote
Switching Unit (RSU)).
The following chart will list the Office #, name, & how many of those office
exist (to the best of my knowledge) in North America:
Class Name Abb Number Existing
1 Regional Center RC 12
2 Sectional Center SC 67
3 Primary Center PC 230
4 Toll Center TC 1,300
4P Toll Point TP N/A
4X Intermediate Point IP N/A
5 End Office EO 19,000
When connecting a call from one party to another, the switching equipment
usually tries to find the shortest route between the class 5 end office of the
caller & the class 5 end office of the called party. If no inter-office trunks
exist between the two parties, it will then move upward to the next highest
office for servicing calls (Class 4). If the Class 4 office cannot handle the
call by sending it to another Class 4 or 5 office, it will then be sent to the
next highest office in the hierarchy (3). The switching equipment first uses
the high-usage interoffice trunk groups, if they are busy then it goes to the
final; trunk groups on the next highest level. If the call cannot be connected,
you will probably get a re-order [120 IPM (interruptions per minute) busy
signal] signal. At this time, the guys at Network Operations are probably
shitting in their pants and trying to avoid the dreaded Network Dreadlock (as
seen on TV!).
It is also interesting to note that 9 connections in tandem is called ringaround-
the-rosy and it has never occurred in telephone history. This would
cause an endless loop connection [a neat way to really screw up the network].
The 10 regional centers in the US & the 2 in Canada are all interconnected.
they form the foundation of the entire telephone network. Since there are only
12 of them, they are listed below:
Class 1 Regional Office Location NPA
Dallas 4 ESS 214
Wayne, PA 215
Denver 4T 303
Regina No. 2SP1-4W (Canada) 306
St. Louis 4T 314
Rockdale, GA 404
Pittsburgh 4E 412
Montreal No. 1 4AETS (Canada) 504
37. Basic Alliance Teleconferencing by The Jolly Roger
This phile will deal with accessing, understanding and using the Alliance
Teleconferencing Systems. It has many sections and for best use should be
printed out.
Alliance Teleconferencing is an independent company which allows the general
public to access and use it's conferencing equipment. Many rumors have been
floating around that Alliance is a subsidiary of AT&T. Well, they are wrong. As
stated above, Alliance is an entirely independent company. They use
sophisticated equipment to allow users to talk to many people at once.
The Number:
Alliance is in the 700 exchange, thus it is not localized, well, not in a way.
Alliance is only in certain states, and only residents of these certain states
can access by dialing direct. This, however, will be discussed in a later
chapter. The numbers for alliance are as follows:
0-700-456-1000 (Chicago)
-1001 (Los Angeles)
-1002 (Chicago)
-1003 (Houston)
-2000 (?)
-2001 (?)
-2002 (?)
-2003 (?)
-3000 (?)
-3001 (?)
-3002 (?)
-3003 (?)
The locations of the first 4 numbers are known and I have stated them. However,
the numbers in the 200x and 300x are not definitely known. Rumor has it that
the pattern repeats itself but this has not been proven.
As stated before, Alliance is only in certain stated and only these states can
access them via dialing direct. However, dialing direct causes your residence
to be charged for the conference and conference bills are not low!!!
Therefore, many ways have been discovered to start a conference without having
it billed to ones house. They are as follows:
1. Dialing through a PBX.
2. Incorporating a Blue Box.
3. Billing to a loop.
4. Billing to a forwarded call.
I am sure there are many more, but these are the four I will deal with.
Dialing through a PBX:
Probably the easiest method of creating a free conference is through a PBX.
Simply call one in a state that has Alliance, input the PBX's code, dial 9 for
an outside line and then dial alliance. An example of this would be:
PBX: 800-241-4911
When it answers it will give you a tone. At this tone input your code.
Code: 1234
After this you will receive another tone, now dial 9 for an outside line.
You will now hear a dial tone. Simply dial Alliance from this point and
the conference will be billed to the PBX.
Using a Blue Box:
Another rather simple way of starting a conference is with a Blue Box. The
following procedure is how to box a conference:
Dial a number to box off of. In this example we will use 609-609-6099 When the
party answers hit 2600hz. This will cause the fone company's equipment to think
that you have hung up. You will hear a <beep><kerchunk> You have now 'seized' a
trunk. After this, switch to multi-frequency and dial:
KP = KP tone on Blue Box
x = variable between 1 and 3
ST = ST tone on Blue Box
The equipment now thinks that the operator has dialed Alliance from her
switchboard and the conference shall be billed there. Since Blue Boxing is such
a large topic, this is as far as I will go into it's uses.
Billing to a loop:
A third method of receiving a free conference is by billing out to a loop. A
loop is 2 numbers that when two people call, they can talk to each other.
You're saying woop-tee-do right? Wrong! Loops can be <very> useful to phreaks.
First, dial alliance direct. After going through the beginning procedure, which
will be discussed later in this tutorial, dial 0 and wait for an Alliance
operator. When she answers tell her you would like to bill the conference to
such and such a number. (A loop where your phriend is on the other side) She
will then call that number to receive voice verification. Of course your
phriend will be waiting and will accept the charges. Thus, the conference is
billed to the loop.
Billing to call forwarding:
When you dial a number that is call forwarded, it is first answered by the
original location, then forwarded. The original location will hang up if 2600hz
is received from only one end of the line. Therefore, if you were to wait after
the forwarded residence answered, you would receive the original location's
dial tone.
Dial 800-325-4067
The original residence would answer, then forward the call, a second type of
ringing would be heard. When this second residence answers simply wait until
they hang up. After about twenty seconds you will then receive the original
residence's dial tone since it heard 2600hz from one end of the line. Simply
dial Alliance from this point and the conference will be billed to the original
residence. These are the four main ways to receive a free conference. I am sure
many more exist, but these four are quite handy themselves.
Logon Procedure:
Once Alliance answers you will hear a two-tone combination. This is their way
of saying 'How many people do you want on the conference dude?' Simply type in
a 2-digit combination, depending on what bridge of Alliance you are on, between
10 and 59. After this either hit '*' to cancel the conference size and input
another or hit '#' to continue. You are now in Alliance Teleconferencing and
are only seconds away from having your own roaring conference going strong!!!
Dialing in Conferees:
To dial your first conferee, dial 1+npa+pre+suff and await his/her answer.
npa = area code
pre = prefix
suff = suffix
If the number is busy, or if no one answers simply hit '*' and your call will
be aborted. But, if they do answer, hit the '#' key. This will add them to the
conference. Now commence dialing other conferees.
Joining Your Conference:
To join your conference from control mode simply hit the '#' key. Within a
second or two you will be chatting with all your buddies. To go back into
control mode, simply hit the '#' key again.
Transferring Control:
To transfer control to another conferee, go into control mode, hit the #
6+1+npa+pre+suff of the conferee you wish to give control to. If after, you
wish to abort this transfer hit the '*' key.
NOTE: Transfer of control is often not available. When you receive a message
stating this, you simply cannot transfer control.
Muted Conferences:
To request a muted conference simply hit the 9 key. I am not exactly sure what
a muted conference is but it is probably a way to keep unwanted eavesdroppers
from listening in.
Dialing Alliance Operators:
Simply dial 0 as you would from any fone and wait for the operator to answer.
Ending Your Conference:
To end your conference all together, that is kick everyone including yourself
off, go into control mode and hit '*'...after a few seconds simply hang up.
Your conference is over.
Are Alliance Operators Dangerous?
No. Not in the least. The worst they can do to you while you are having a
conference is drop all conferees including yourself. This is in no way harmful,
just a little aggravating.
Alliance and Tracing:
Alliance can trace, as all citizens of the United States can. But this has to
all be pre-meditated and AT&T has to be called and it's really a large hassle,
therefore, it is almost never done. Alliance simply does not want it known that
teenagers are phucking them over. The only sort of safety equipment Alliance
has on-line is a simple pen register. This little device simply records all the
numbers of the conferees dialed. No big deal. All Alliance can do is call up
that persons number, threaten and question. However, legally, they can do
nothing because all you did was answer your fone.
NOTE: Almost all instructions are told to the person in command by Alliance
recordings. A lot of this tutorial is just a listing of those commands plus
information gathered by either myself or the phellow phreaks of the world!!!
38. Aqua Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
Every true phreaker lives in fear of the dreaded FBI 'Lock In Trace'. For a
long time, it was impossible to escape from the Lock In Trace. This box does
offer an escape route with simple directions to it. This box is quite a simple
concept, and almost any phreaker with basic electronics knowledge can construct
and use it.
The Lock In Trace
A lock in trace is a device used by the FBI to lock into the phone users
location so that he can not hang up while a trace is in progress. For those of
you who are not familiar with the concept of 'locking in', then here's a brief
description. The FBI can tap into a conversation, sort of like a three-way call
connection. Then, when they get there, they can plug electricity into the phone
line. All phone connections are held open by a certain voltage of electricity.
That is why you sometimes get static and faint connections when you are calling
far away, because the electricity has trouble keeping the line up. What the
lock in trace does is cut into the line and generate that same voltage straight
into the lines. That way, when you try and hang up, voltage is retained. Your
phone will ring just like someone was calling you even after you hang up. (If
you have call waiting, you should understand better about that, for call
waiting intercepts the electricity and makes a tone that means someone is going
through your line. Then, it is a matter of which voltage is higher. When you
push down the receiver, then it see-saws the electricity to the other side.
When you have a person on each line it is impossible to hang up unless one or
both of them will hang up. If you try to hang up, voltage is retained, and your
phone will ring. That should give you an understanding of how calling works.
Also, when electricity passes through a certain point on your phone, the
electricity causes a bell to ring, or on some newer phones an electronic ring
to sound.) So, in order to eliminate the trace, you somehow must lower the
voltage level on your phone line. You should know that every time someone else
picks up the phone line, then the voltage does decrease a little. In the first
steps of planning this out, Xerox suggested getting about a hundred phones all
hooked into the same line that could all be taken off the hook at the same
time. That would greatly decrease the voltage level. That is also why most
three-way connections that are using the bell service three way calling (which
is only $3 a month) become quite faint after a while. By now, you should
understand the basic idea. You have to drain all of the power out of the line
so the voltage can not be kept up. Rather sudden draining of power could
quickly short out the FBI voltage machine, because it was only built to sustain
the exact voltage necessary to keep the voltage out. For now, imagine this. One
of the normal Radio Shack generators that you can go pick up that one end of
the cord that hooks into the central box has a phone jack on it and the other
has an electrical plug. This way, you can "flash" voltage through the line, but
cannot drain it. So, some
modifications have to be done.
A BEOC (Basic Electrical Output Socket), like a small lamp-type connection,
where you just have a simple plug and wire that would plug into a light bulb.
One of cords mentioned above, if you can't find one then construct your own...
Same voltage connection, but the restrainer must be built in (I.E. The central
box) Two phone jacks (one for the modem, one for if you are being traced to
plug the aqua box into) Some creativity and easy work.
Notice: No phones have to be destroyed/modified to make this box, so don't go
out and buy a new phone for it!
All right, this is a very simple procedure. If you have the BEOC, it could
drain into anything: a radio, or whatever. The purpose of having that is you
are going to suck the voltage out from the phone line into the electrical
appliance so there would be no voltage left to lock you in with.
1. Take the connection cord. Examine the plug at the end. It should have only
two prongs. If it has three, still, do not fear. Make sure the electrical
appliance is turned off unless you want to become a crispy critter while
making this thing. Most plugs will have a hard plastic design on the top of
them to prevent you from getting in at the electrical wires inside. Well,
remove it. If you want to keep the plug (I don't see why...) then just cut
the top off. When you look inside, Low and Behold, you will see that at the
base of the prongs there are a few wires connecting in. Those wires conduct
the power into the appliance. So, you carefully unwrap those from the sides
and pull them out until they are about an inch ahead of the prongs. If you
don't want to keep the jack, then just rip the prongs out. If you are, cover
the prongs with insulation tape so they will not connect with the wires when
the power is being drained from the line.
2. Do the same thing with the prongs on the other plug, so you have the wires
evenly connected. Now, wrap the end of the wires around each other. If you
happen to have the other end of the voltage cord hooked into the phone, stop
reading now, you're too fucking stupid to continue. After you've wrapped the
wires around each other, then cover the whole thing with the plugs with
insulating tape. Then, if you built your own control box or if you bought
one, then cram all the wires into it and reclose it. That box is your ticket
out of this.
3. Re-check everything to make sure it's all in place. This is a pretty flimsy
connection, but on later models when you get more experienced at it then you
can solder away at it and form the whole device into one big box, with some
kind of cheap Mattel hand-held game inside to be the power connector. In
order to use it, just keep this box handy. Plug it into the jack if you
want, but it will slightly lower the voltage so it isn't connected. When you
plug it in, if you see sparks, unplug it and restart the whole thing. But if
it just seems fine then leave it.
Now, so you have the whole thing plugged in and all... Do not use this unless
the situation is desperate! When the trace has gone on, don't panic, unplug
your phone, and turn on the appliance that it was hooked to. It will need
energy to turn itself on, and here's a great source... The voltage to keep a
phone line open is pretty small and a simple light bulb should drain it all in
and probably short the FBI computer at the same time.
39. Hindenberg Bomb by The Jolly Roger
1 Balloon
1 Bottle
1 Liquid Plumber
1 Piece Aluminum foil
1 Length Fuse
Fill the bottle 3/4 full with Liquid Plumber and add a little piece of aluminum
foil to it. Put the balloon over the neck of the bottle until the balloon is
full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the
balloon. Now light the fuse, and let it rise. When the fuse contacts the
balloon, watch out!!!
40. How to Kill Someone with your Bare Hands by The Jolly Roger
This file will explain the basics of hand-to-hand combat, and will tell of the
best places to strike and kill an enemy. When engaged in hand-to-hand combat,
your life is always at stake. There is only one purpose in combat, and that is
to kill your enemy. Never face an enemy with the idea of knocking him out. The
chances are extremely good that he will kill YOU instead. When a weapon is not
available, one must resort to the full use of his natural weapons. The natural
weapons are:
1. The knife edge of your hands.
2. Fingers folded at the second joint or knuckle.
3. The protruding knuckle of your second finger.
4. The heel of your hand.
5. Your boot
6. Elbows
7. Knees
8. Your Teeth.
Attacking is a primary factor. A fight was never won by defensive action.
Attack with all of your strength. At any point or any situation, some
vulnerable point on your enemies body will be open for attack. Do this while
screaming as screaming has two purposes.
1. To frighten and confuse your enemy.
2. To allow you to take a deep breath which, in turn, will put more oxygen in
your blood stream.
Your balance and balance of your enemy are two important factors; since, if you
succeed in making your enemy lose his balance, the chances are nine to one that
you can kill him in your next move. The best over-all stance is where your feet
are spread about shoulders width apart, with your right foot about a foot ahead
of the left. Both arms should be bent at the elbows parallel to each other.
Stand on the balls of your feet and bend your waist slightly. Kind of like a
boxer's crouch. Employing a sudden movement or a scream or yell can throw your
enemy off-balance. There are many vulnerable points of the body. We will cover
them now:
Eyes: Use your fingers in a V-shape and attack in gouging motion.
NoseExtremely vulnerable) Strike with the knife edge of the hand along the
bridge, which will cause breakage, sharp pain, temporary blindness, and if the
blow is hard enough, death. Also, deliver a blow with the heel of your hand in
an upward motion, this will shove the bone up into the brain causing death.
Adam's Apple: This spot is usually pretty well protected, but if you get the
chance, strike hard with the knife edge of your hand. This should sever the
wind-pipe, and then it's all over in a matter of minutes.
Temple: There is a large artery up here, and if you hit it hard enough, it will
cause death. If you manage to knock your enemy down, kick him in the temple,
and he'll never get up again.
Back of the Neck: A rabbit punch, or blow delivered to the base of the neck can
easily break it, but to be safe, it is better to use the butt of a gun or some
other heavy blunt object.
Upper lip: A large network of nerves are located. These nerves are extremely
close to the skin. A sharp upward blow will cause extreme pain, and
Ears: Coming up from behind an enemy and cupping the hands in a clapping motion
over the victims ears can kill him immediately. The vibrations caused from the
clapping motion will burst his eardrums, and cause internal bleeding in the
Groin: A VERY vulnerable spot. If left open, get it with knee hard, and he'll
buckle over very fast.
Kidneys: A large nerve that branches off to the spinal cord comes very close to
the skin at the kidneys. A direct blow with the knife edge of your hand can
cause death.
There are many more ways to kill and injure an enemy, but these should work
best for the average person. This is meant only as information and I would not
recommend that you use this for a simple High School Brawl. Use these methods
only, in your opinion, if your life is in danger. Any one of these methods
could very easily kill or cause permanent damage to someone. One more word of
caution, you should practice these moves before using them on a dummy, or a
mock battle with a friend. (You don't have to actually hit him to practice,
just work on accuracy.)
41. Phone Systems Tutorial III by The Jolly Roger
This article will focus primarily on the standard western electric single- Slot
coin telephone (aka fortress fone) which can be divided into 3 types:
dial-tone first (dtf)
coin-first (cf): (i.e., it wants your $ before you receive a dial tone)
dial post-pay service (pp): you payafter the party answers
Depositing coins (slugs):
Once you have deposited your slug into a fortress, it is subjected to a Gamut
of tests. The first obstacle for a slug is the magnetic trap. This will stop
any light-weight magnetic slugs and coins. If it passes this, the slug is then
classified as a nickel, dime, or Quarter. Each slug is then checked for
appropriate size and weight. If These tests are passed, it will then travel
through a nickel, dime, or quarter Magnet as appropriate. These magnets set up
an eddy current effect which Causes coins of the appropriate characteristics to
slow down so they Will follow the correct trajectory. If all goes well, the
coin will follow the Correct path (such as bouncing off of the nickel anvil)
where it will Hopefully fall into the narrow accepted coin channel. The rather
elaborate tests that are performed as the coin travels down the Coin chute will
stop most slugs and other undesirable coins, such as Pennies, which must then
be retrieved using the coin release lever. If the slug miraculously survives
the gamut, it will then strike the Appropriate totalizer arm causing a ratchet
wheel to rotate once for every 5-cent increment (e.g., a quarter will cause it
to rotate 5 times). The totalizer then causes the coin signal oscillator to
readout a dual-frequency signal indicating the value deposited to acts (a
computer) or the Tsps operator. These are the same tones used by phreaks in the
infamous red boxes. For a quarter, 5 beep tones are outpulsed at 12-17 pulses
per second (pps). A dime causes 2 beep tones at 5 - 8 pps while a nickel
causes one beep tone at 5 - 8 pps. A beep consists of 2 tones: 2200 + 1700 hz.
A relay in the fortress called the "B Relay" (yes, there is also an 'a relay')
places a capacitor across the speech circuit during totalizer readout to
prevent the "customer" from hearing the red box tones. In older 3 slot phones:
one bell (1050-1100 hz) for a nickel, two bells for a dime, and one gong (800
hz) for a quarter are used instead of the modern dual-frequency tones.
While fortresses are connected to the co of the area, all transactions are
handled via the traffic service position system (tsps). In areas that do not
have acts, all calls that require operator assistance, such as calling card and
collect, are automatically routed to a tsps operator position. In an effort to
automate fortress service, a computer system known as automated coin toll
service (acts) has been implemented in many areas. Acts listens to the red box
signals from the fones and takes appropriate action. It is acts which says,
"two dollars please (pause) please deposit two dollars for the next ten
seconds" (and other variations). Also, if you talk for more than three minutes
and then hang-up, acts will call back and demand your money. Acts is also
responsible for automated calling card service. Acts also provide trouble
diagnosis for craftspeople (repairmen specializing in fortresses). For example,
there is a coin test which is great for tuning up red boxes. In many areas this
test can be activated by dialing 09591230 at a fortress (thanks to karl marx
for this information). Once activated it will request that you deposit various
coins. It will then identify the coin and outpulse the appropriate red box
signal. The coins are usually returned when you hang up. To make sure that
there is actually money in the fone, the co initiates a "ground test" at
various times to determine if a coin is actually in the fone. This is why you
must deposit at least a nickel in order to use a red box!
Green Boxes:
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain fortresses) left
a sour taste in many red boxer's mouths thus the green box was invented. The
green box generates useful tones such as coin collect, coin return, and
ringback. These are the tones that acts or the tsps operator would send to The
co when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at a fortress
station but it must be used by the called party.
Here are the tones:
Coin Collect 700 + 1100 Hz
Coin Return 1100 + 1700 Hz
Ringback 700 + 1700 Hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator released signal
should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the co. This can be accomplished by
sending 900 + 1500 hz or a single 2600 hz wink (90 ms) followed by a 60 ms gap
and then the appropriate signal for at least 900 Ms.
Also, do not forget that the initial rate is collected shortly before the 3
minute period is up. Incidentally, once the above MF tones for collecting and
returning coins reach the co, they are converted into an appropriate dc pulse
(-130 volts for return & +130 volts for collect). This pulse is then sent down
the tip to the fortress. This causes the coin relay to either return or collect
the coins. The alleged "t-network" takes advantage of this information. When a
pulse for coin collect (+130 vdc) is sent down the line, it must be grounded
somewhere. This is usually either the yellow or black wire. Thus, if the wires
are exposed, these wires can be cut to prevent the pulse from being grounded.
When the three minute initial period is almost up, make sure that the black &
yellow wires are severed; then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a
second pulse, reconnect the wires, pick up the fone, hang up again, and if all
goes well it should be "jackpot" time.
Physical Attack:
A typical fortress weighs roughly 50 lbs. With an empty coin box. Most of this
is accounted for in the armor plating. Why all the security? Well, Bell
contributes it to the following: "social changes during the 1960's made the
multislot coin station a prime target for: vandalism, strong arm robbery,
fraud, and theft of service. This brought about the introduction of the more
rugged single slot coin station and a new environment for coin service." As for
picking the lock, I will quote Mr. Phelps: "We often fantasize about 'picking
the lock' or 'getting a master key.' Well, you can forget about it. I don't
like to discourage people, but it will save you from wasting a lot of our
time--time which can be put to better use (heh, heh)." As for physical attack,
the coin plate is secured on all four side by hardened steel bolts which pass
through two
slots each. These bolts are in turn interlocked by the main lock. One phreak I
know did manage to take one of the 'mothers' home (which was attached to a
piece of plywood at a construction site; otherwise, the permanent ones are a
bitch to detach from the wall!). It took him almost ten hours to open the coin
box using a power drill, sledge hammers, and crowbars (which was empty --
perhaps next time, he will deposit a coin first to hear if it slushes down
nicely or hits the empty bottom with a clunk.)
Taking the fone offers a higher margin of success. Although this may be
difficult often requiring brute force and there has been several cases of back
axles being lost trying to take down a fone! A quick and dirty way to open the
coin box is by using a shotgun. In Detroit, after ecologists cleaned out a
municipal pond, they found 168 coin phones rifled. In colder areas, such as
Canada, some shrewd people tape up the fones using duct tape, pour in water,
and come back the next day when the water will have froze thus expanding and
cracking the fone open. In one case, "unauthorized coin collectors" where
caught when they brought $6,000 in change to a bank and the bank became
suspicious... At any rate, the main lock is an eight level tumbler located on
the right side of the coin box. This lock has 390,625 possible positions (5 ^
8, since there are 8 tumblers each with 5 possible positions) thus it is highly
pick resistant! The lock is held in place by 4 screws. If there is sufficient
clearance to the right of the fone, it is conceivable to punch out the screws
using the drilling pattern below (provided by Alexander Muddy in tap #32):
!! ^
!! !
! 1- 3/16 " !! !
!<--- --->!! 1-"
-------------------- !
! ! !! ! !
! (+) (+)-! -----------
---! !! ! ^
! ! !! ! !
! ! (Z) !! ! !
! ! !! ! 2-3/16"
---! !! ! !
! (+) (+) ! !
! !! ! !
-------------------- -----------
After this is accomplished, the lock can be pushed backwards disengaging the
lock from the cover plate. The four bolts of the cover plate can then be
retracted by turning the bolt works with a simple key in the shape of the hole
on the coin plate (see diagram below). Of course, there are other methods and
drilling patterns.
! !
( )
The top cover uses a similar, but not as strong locking method with the keyhole
depicted above on the top left hide and a regular lock (probably tumbler also)
on the top right-hand side. It is interesting to experiment with the coin chute
and the fortresses own "red box" which bell didn't have the balls to color red.
In a few areas (rural & Canada), post-pay service exists. With this type of
service, the mouthpiece is cut off until the caller deposits money when the
called party answers. This also allows for free calls to weather and other
dial-it services! Recently, 2600 magazine announced the clear box which
consists of a telephone pickup coil and a small amp. It is based on the
principal that the receiver is also a weak transmitter and that by amplifying
your signal you can talk via the transmitter thus avoiding costly telephone
charges! Most fortresses are found in the 9xxx area. Under former bell areas,
they usually start at 98xx (right below the 99xx official series) and move
Since the line, not the fone, determines whether or not a deposit must be made,
dtf & charge-a-call fones make great extensions! Finally, fortress fones allow
for a new hobby--instruction plate collecting. All that is required is a flathead
screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Simply use the screwdriver
to lift underneath the plate so that you can grab it with the pliers and yank
downwards. I would suggest covering the tips of the pliers with electrical tape
to prevent scratching. Ten cent plates are definitely becoming a "rarity!"
Fortress security:
While a lonely fortress may seem the perfect target, beware! The gestapo has
been known to stake out fortresses for as long as 6 years according to the
grass roots quarterly. To avoid any problems, do not use the same fones
repeatedly for boxing, calling cards, & other experiments. The Telco knows how
much money should be in the coin box and when its not there they tend to get
perturbed (Read: Pissed Off).
42. Black Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
At any given time, the voltage running through your phone is about 20 Volts.
When someone calls you, this voltage goes up to 48 Volts and rings the bell.
When you answer, the voltage goes down to about 10 Volts. The phone company
pays attention to this. When the voltage drops to 10, they start billing the
person who called you.
The Black Box keeps the voltage going through your phone at 36 Volts, so that
it never reaches 10 Volts. The phone company is thus fooled into thinking you
never answered the phone and does not bill the caller. However, after about a
half hour the phone company will get suspicious and disconnect your line for
about 10 seconds.
1 1.8K Watt Resistor
1 1V LED
1 SPST Switch
1. Open your phone by loosening the two screws on the bottom and lifting the
case off.
2. There should be three wires: Red, Green, and Yellow. We'll be working with
the Red Wire.
3. Connect the following in parallel:
The Resistor and LED.
The SPST Switch.
In other words, you should end up with this:
(Red Wire)
(Line)-----! !-----(Phone)
/\/\/\ = Resistor
_/_ = SPST
The SPST Switch is the On/Off Switch of the Black Box. When the box is off,
your phone behaves normally. When the box is on and your phone rings, the LED
flashes. When you answer, the LED stays on and the voltage is kept at 36V, so
the calling party doesn't get charged. When the box is on, you will not get a
dial tone and thus cannot make calls. Also remember that calls are limited to
half an hour.
PS Due to new Fone Company switching systems & the like, this may or may not
work in your area. If you live in Bumfuck Kentucky, then try this out. I make
no guarantees! (I never do...)
43. The Infamous Blotto Box!! by The Jolly Roger
(I bet that no one has the balls to build this one!)
Finally, it is here! What was first conceived as a joke to fool the innocent
phreakers around America has finally been conceived! Well, for you people who
are unenlightened about the Blotto Box, here is a brief summery of a legend.
The Blotto Box
For years now every pirate has dreamed of the Blotto Box. It was at first made
as a joke to mock more ignorant people into thinking that the function of it
actually was possible. Well, if you are The Voltage Master, it is possible.
Originally conceived by King Blotto of much fame, the Blotto Box is finally
available to the public.
NOTE: Jolly Roger can not be responsible for the information disclosed in the
file! This file is strictly for informational purposes and should not be
actually built and used! Usage of this electronical impulse machine could have
the severe results listed below and could result in high federal prosecution!
Again, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY! All right, now that that is cleared up, here
is the basis of the box and it's function.
The Blotto Box is every phreaks dream... you could hold AT&T down on its knee's
with this device. Because, quite simply, it can turn off the phone lines
everywhere. Nothing. Blotto. No calls will be allowed out of an area code, and
no calls will be allowed in. No calls can be made inside it for that matter. As
long as the switching system stays the same, this box will not stop at a mere
area code. It will stop at nothing. The electrical impulses that emit from this
box will open every line. Every line will ring and ring and ring... the voltage
will never be cut off until the box/generator is stopped. This is no 200 volt
job, here. We are talking GENERATOR. Every phone line will continue to ring, and
people close to the box may be electrocuted if they pick up the phone. But, the
Blotto Box can be stopped by merely cutting of the line or generator. If they
are cut off then nothing will emit any longer. It will take a while for the box
to calm back down again, but that is merely a superficial aftereffect. Once
again: Construction and use of this box is not advised! The Blotto Box will
continue as long as there is electricity to continue with. OK, that is what it
does, now, here are some interesting things for you to do with it...
Blotto Functions/Installing
Once you have installed your Blotto, there is no turning back. The following
are the instructions for construction and use of this box. Please read and heed
all warnings in the above section before you attempt to construct this box.
A Honda portable generator or a main power outlet like in a stadium or some
such place.
400 volt rated coupler that splices a female plug into a phone line jack.
A meter of voltage to attach to the box itself.
A green base (i.e. one of the nice boxes about 3' by 4' that you see around
in your neighborhood. They are the main switch boards and would be a more
effective line to start with or a regular phone jack (not your own, and not
in your area code!)
A soldering iron and much solder.
A remote control or long wooden pole.
Now. You must have guessed the construction from that. If not, here goes, I
will explain in detail. Take the Honda Portable Generator and all of the other
listed equipment and go out and hunt for a green base. Make sure it is one on
the ground or hanging at head level from a pole, not the huge ones at the top
of telephone poles. Open it up with anything convenient, if you are two feeble
then fuck, don't try this. Take a look inside... you are hunting for colorcoordinating
lines of green and red. Now, take out your radio shack cord and
rip the meter thing off. Replace it with the voltage meter about. A good level
to set the voltage to is about 1000 volts. Now, attach the voltage meter to the
cord and set the limit for one thousand. Plug the other end of the cord into
the generator. Take the phone jack and splice the jack part off. Open it up and
match the red and green wires with the other red and green wires.
NOTE: If you just had the generator on and have done this in the correct order,
you will be a crispy critter. Keep the generator off until you plan to start it
up. Now, solder those lines together carefully. Wrap duck tape or insulation
tape around all of the wires. Now, place the remote control right on to the
startup of the generator. If you have the long pole, make sure it is very long
and stand back as far away as you can get and reach the pole over.
NOTICE: If you are going right along with this without reading the file first,
you still realize now that your area code is about to become null! Then,
getting back, twitch the pole/remote control and run for your damn life.
Anywhere, just get away from it. It will be generating so much electricity that
if you stand to close you will kill yourself. The generator will smoke, etc.
but will not stop. You are now killing your area code, because all of that
energy is spreading through all of the phone lines around you in every
Have a nice day!
The Blotto Box: Aftermath
Well, that is the plans for the most devastating and ultimately deadly
box ever created. My hat goes off to: King Blotto (for the original idea).
44. Blowgun by The Jolly Roger
In this article I shall attempt to explain the use and manufacture of a
powerful blow-gun and making darts for the gun. The possession of the blow gun
described in this article IS a felony. So be careful where you use it. I don't
want to get you all busted.
1. Several strands of yarn (About 2 inches a-piece).
2. A regular pencil.
3. A 2 inch long needle (hopefully with a beaded head. If not obtainable,
wrap tape around end of needle.
4. foot pipe. (PVC or Aluminum) Half a inch in diameter.
Constructing the dart:
1. Carefully twist and pull the metal part (Along with eraser) of the pencil
till it comes off.
2. Take Pin and start putting about 5-7 Strands of yarn on the pin. Then push
them up to the top of the pin. But not over the head of the pin (or the
3. Push pin through the hollow part of the head where the pencil was before.
4. That should for a nice looking dart. (see illustration)
>>>>>-----/ # is the yarn
> is the head of the pencil
- is the pin it-self
/ is the head of the pin
Using the Darts:
1. Now take the finished dart and insert it in the tube (if it is too small put
on more yarn.)
2. Aim the tube at a door, wall, sister, ect.
3. Blow on the end of the pipe.
4. Sometimes the end of the pipe may be sharp. When this happens I suggest you
wrap it with some black electrician tape. It should feel a lot better.
45. Brown Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
This is a fairly simple mod that can be made to any phone. All it does is allow
you to take any two lines in your house and create a party line. So far I have
not heard of anyone who has any problems with it. There is one thing that you
will notice when you are one of the two people who is called by a person with a
brown box. The other person will sound a little bit faint. I could overcome
this with some amplifiers but then there wouldn't be very many of these made
[Why not?]. I think the convenience of having two people on the line at once
will make up for any minor volume loss.
Here is the diagram:
| BLACK WIRE | * |
| RED WIRE | + |
| GREEN WIRE | - |
| SPDT SWITCH | _/_ |
| _/_ |
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* = - +
* ==_/_- +
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
46. Calcium Carbide Bomb by The Jolly Roger
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium
carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at
nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like
gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The
carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is
similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode
from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice
47. More Ways to Send a Car to Hell by The Jolly Roger
Due to a lot of compliments, I have written an update to file #14. I have left
the original intact. This expands upon the original idea, and could be well
called a sequel.
How to have phun with someone else's car. If you really detest someone, and I
mean detest, here's a few tips on what to do in your spare time. Move the
windshield wiper blades, and insert and glue tacks. The tacks make lovely
designs. If your "friend" goes to school with you, Just before he comes out of
school. Light a lighter and then put it directly underneath his car door
handle. Wait...Leave...Listen. When you hear a loud "shit!", you know he made
it to his car in time. Remove his muffler and pour approximately 1 Cup of gas
in it. Put the muffler back, then wait till their car starts. Then you have a
cigarette lighter. A 30 foot long cigarette lighter. This one is effective,
and any fool can do it. Remove the top air filter. That's it! Or a oldie but
goodie: sugar in the gas tank. Stuff rags soaked in gas up the exhaust pipe.
Then you wonder why your "friend" has trouble with his/her lungs. Here's one
that takes time and many friends. Take his/her car then break into their house
and reassemble it, in their living or bedroom. Phun eh? If you're into
engines, say eeni mine moe and point to something and remove it. They wonder
why something doesn't work. There are so many others, but the real good juicy
ones come by thinking hard.
48. Ripping off Change Machines by The Jolly Roger
Have you ever seen one of those really big changer machines in airports
Laundromats or arcades that dispense change when you put in your 1 or 5 dollar
bill? Well then, here is an article for you.
1. Find the type of change machine that you slide in your bill length wise, not
the type where you put the bill in a tray and then slide the tray in!!!
2. After finding the right machine, get a $1 or $5 bill. Start crumpling up
into a ball. Then smooth out the bill, now it should have a very wrinkly
3. Now the hard part. You must tear a notch in the bill on the left side about
inch below the little 1 dollar symbol (See Figure).
4. If you have done all of this right then take the bill and go out the
machine. Put the bill in the machine and wait. What should happen is: when
you put your bill in the machine it thinks everything is fine. When it gets
to the part of the bill with the notch cut out, the machine will reject the
bill and (if you have done it right) give you the change at the same time!!!
So, you end up getting your bill back, plus the change!! It might take a
little practice, but once you get the hang of it, you can get a lot of
\-----Make notch here. About " down from the 1.
49. Clear Box Plans by The Jolly Roger
The clear box is a new device which has just been invented that can be used
throughout Canada and rural United States. The clear box works on "PostPay"
payphones (fortress fones). Those are the payphones that don't require payment
until after the connection is established. You pick up the fone, get a dial
tone, dial your number, and then insert your money after the person answers. If
you don't deposit the money then you can not speak to the person on the other
end because your mouth piece is cut off but not the ear-piece. (obviously these
phones are nice for free calls to weather or time or other such recordings).
All you must do is to go to your nearby Radio Shack, or electronics store, and
get a four-transistor amplifier and a telephone suction cup induction pick-up.
The induction pick-up would be hooked up as it normally would to record a
conversation, except that it would be plugged into the output of the amplifier
and a microphone would be hooked to the input. So when the party that is being
called answers, the caller could speak through the little microphone instead.
His voice then goes through the amplifier and out the induction coil, and into
the back of the receiver where it would then be broadcast through the phone
lines and the other party would be able to hear the caller. The Clear Box thus
'clears up' the problem of not being heard. Luckily, the line will not be cutoff
after a certain amount of time because it will wait forever for the coins
to be put in. The biggest advantage for all of us about this new clear box is
the fact that this type of payphone will most likely become very common. Due to
a few things: 1st, it is a cheap way of getting the DTF, dial-tone-first
service, 2nd, it doesn't require any special equipment, (for the phone company)
This payphone will work on any phone line. Usually a payphone line is
different, but this is a regular phone line and it is set up so the phone does
all the charging, not the company.
50. CNA List by The Jolly Roger
201 201-676-7070 415 415-543-6374 709 *** NONE ***
202 304-343-7016 416 416-443-0542 712 402-580-2255
203 203-789-6815 417 314-721-6626 713 713-861-7194
204 204-949-0900 418 514-725-2491 714 818-501-7251
205 205-988-7000 419 614-464-0123 715 608-252-6932
206 206-382-5124 501 405-236-6121 716 518-471-8111
207 617-787-5300 502 502-583-2861 717 412-633-5600
208 303-293-8777 503 206-382-5124 718 518-471-8111
209 415-543-2861 504 504-245-5330 801 303-293-8777
212 518-471-8111 505 303-293-8777 802 617-787-5300
213 415-781-5271 506 506-648-3041 803 912-784-0440
214 214-464-7400 507 402-580-2255 804 304-344-7935
215 412-633-5600 509 206-382-5124 805 415-543-2861
216 614-464-0123 512 512-828-2501 806 512-828-2501
217 217-525-5800 513 614-464-0123 807 416-443-0542
218 402-580-2255 514 514-725-2491 808 212-334-4336
219 317-265-4834 515 402-580-2255 809 212-334-4336
301 304-343-1401 516 518-471-8111 812 317-265-4834
302 412-633-5600 517 313-223-8690 813 813-228-7871
303 303-293-8777 518 518-471-8111 814 412-633-5600
304 304-344-8041 519 416-443-0542 815 217-525-5800
305 912-784-0440 601 601-961-8139 816 816-275-2782
306 306-347-2878 602 303-293-8777 817 214-464-7400
307 303-293-8777 603 617-787-5300 818 415-781-5271
308 402-580-2255 604 604-432-2996 819 514-725-2491
309 217-525-5800 605 402-580-2255 901 615-373-5791
312 312-796-9600 606 502-583-2861 902 902-421-4110
313 313-223-8690 607 518-471-8111 904 912-784-0440
314 314-721-6626 608 608-252-6932 906 313-223-8690
315 518-471-8111 609 201-676-7070 907 *** NONE ***
316 816-275-2782 612 402-580-2255 912 912-784-0440
317 317-265-4834 613 416-443-0542 913 816-275-2782
318 504-245-5330 614 614-464-0123 914 518-471-8111
319 402-580-2255 615 615-373-5791 915 512-828-2501
401 617-787-5300 616 313-223-8690 916 415-543-2861
402 402-580-2255 617 617-787-5300 918 405-236-6121
403 403-425-2652 618 217-525-5800 919 912-784-0440
404 912-784-0440 619 818-501-7251 900 201-676-7070
405 405-236-6121 701 402-580-2255
406 303-293-8777 702 415-543-2861
408 415-543-6374 703 304-344-7935
409 713-861-7194 704 912-784-0440
412 413-633-5600 705 416-979-3469
413 617-787-5300 706 *** NONE ***
414 608-252-6932 707 415-543-6374
51. Electronic Terrorism by The Jolly Roger
1. It starts when a big, dumb lummox rudely insults you. Being of a rational,
intelligent disposition, you wisely choose to avoid a (direct)
confrontation. But as he laughs in your face, you smile inwardly---your
revenge is already planned.
2. Follow your victim to his locker, car, or house. Once you have chosen your
target site, lay low for a week or more, letting your anger boil.
3. In the mean time, assemble your versatile terrorist kit(details below.)
4. Plant your kit at the designated target site on a Monday morning between the
hours of 4:00 am and 6:00 am. Include a calm, suggestive note that quietly
hints at the possibility of another attack. Do not write it by hand! An
example of an effective note: "don't be such a jerk, or the next one will
take off your hand. Have a nice day." Notice how the calm tone instills
fear. As if written by a homicidal psychopath.
5. Choose a strategic location overlooking the target site. Try to position
yourself in such a way that you can see his facial contortions.
6. Sit back and enjoy the fireworks! Assembly of the versatile, economic, and
effective terrorist kit #1: the parts you'll need are:
4 AA batteries
1 9-volt battery
1 SPDT mini relay (radio shack)
1 rocket engine(smoke bomb or m-80)
1 solar igniter (any hobby store)
1 9-volt battery connector
1. Take the 9-volt battery and wire it through the relay's coil. This circuit
should also include a pair of contacts that when separated cut off this
circuit. These contacts should be held together by trapping them between
the locker, mailbox, or car door. Once the door is opened, the contacts fall
apart and the 9-volt circuit is broken, allowing the relay to fall to the
closed position thus closing the ignition circuit. (If all this is confusing
take a look at the schematic below.)
2. Take the 4 AA batteries and wire them in succession. Wire the positive
terminal of one to the negative terminal of another, until all four are
connected except one positive terminal and one negative terminal. Even
though the four AA batteries only combine to create 6 volts, the increase in
amperage is necessary to activate the solar igniter quickly and effectively.
3. Take the battery pack (made in step 2) and wire one end of it to the relay's
single pole and the other end to one prong of the solar igniter. Then wire
the other prong of the solar igniter back to the open position on the relay.
4. Using double sided carpet tape mount the kit in his locker, mailbox, or car
door. And last, insert the solar igniter into the rocket engine (smoke bomb
or m-80).
Your kit is now complete!
I ---
/ I
/ I
/ I
I - ( PACK )
I ---
---- -----
52. How to Start A Conference w/o 2600hz or M-F by The Jolly Roger
This method of starting the conf. Depends on your ability to bullshit the
operator into dialing a number which can only be reached with an operator's M-F
tones. When bullshitting the operator remember operator's are not hired to
think but to do.
Here is a step-by-step way to the conf.:
Call the operator through a pbx or extender, you could just call one Through
your line but I wouldn't recommend it.
Say to the operator: TSPS maintenance engineer, ring-forward to 213+080+1100,
position release, thank you.(she will probably ask you for the number again)
Ring-forward instructs her to dial the number.
Position release instructs her to release the trunk after she has dialed the
+ - remember to say 213plus080 plus1100.
3. When you are connected with the conf. You will here a whistle blow twice and
a recording asking you for your operator number. Dial in any five digits and
hit the pounds sign a couple of times. Simply dial in the number of the billing
line ect. When the recording ask for it. When in the control mode of the conf.
Hit '6' to transfer control. Hit '001' to reenter the number of conferee's and
time amount which you gave when you stared the conf. Remember the size can be
from 2-59 conferee's. I have not found out the 'lengths' limits.
53. How to Make Dynamite by The Jolly Roger
Dynamite is nothing more than just nitroglycerin and a stabilizing agent to
make it much safer to use. The numbers are percentages, be sure to mix these
carefully and be sure to use the exact amounts. These percentages are in
weight ratio, not volume.
Number Ingredients Amount
1st Nitroglycerin 32%
Sodium Nitrate 28%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 29%
Guncotton 1%
2nd Nitroglycerin 24%
Potassium Nitrate 9%
Sodium Nitrate 56%
Woodmeal 9%
Ammonium Oxalate 2%
3rd Nitroglycerin 35%
Potassium Nitrate 44%
Woodmeal 6%
Guncotton 2%
Vaseline 5%
Powdered Charcoal 6%
4th Nitroglycerin 25%
Potassium Nitrate 26%
Woodmeal 34%
Barium Nitrate 5%
Starch 10%
5th Nitroglycerin 57%
Potassium Nitrate 19%
Woodmeal 9%
Ammonium Oxalate 12%
Guncotton 3%
6th Nitroglycerin 18%
Sodium Nitrate 70%
Woodmeal 5%
Potassium Chloride 4%
Chalk 2%
7th Nitroglycerin 26%
Woodmeal 40%
Barium Nitrate 32%
Sodium Carbonate 2%
8th Nitroglycerin 44%
Woodmeal 12%
Anhydrous Sodium Sulfate 44%
9th Nitroglycerin 24%
Potassium Nitrate 32%
Woodmeal 33%
Ammonium Oxalate 10%
10th Nitroglycerin 26%
Potassium Nitrate 33%
Woodmeal 41%
11th Nitroglycerin 15%
Sodium Nitrate 62.9%
Woodmeal 21.2%
Sodium Carbonate .9%
12th Nitroglycerin 35%
Sodium Nitrate 27%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 1%
13th Nitroglycerin 32%
Potassium Nitrate 27%
Woodmeal 10%
Ammonium Oxalate 30%
Guncotton 1%
14th Nitroglycerin 33%
Woodmeal 10.3%
Ammonium Oxalate 29%
Guncotton .7%
Potassium Perchloride 27%
15th Nitroglycerin 40%
Sodium Nitrate 45%
Woodmeal 15%
16th Nitroglycerin 47%
Starch 50%
Guncotton 3%
17th Nitroglycerin 30%
Sodium Nitrate 22.3%
Woodmeal 40%
Potassium Chloride 7.2%
18th Nitroglycerin 50%
Sodium Nitrate 32.6%
Woodmeal 17%
Ammonium Oxalate .4%
19th Nitroglycerin 23%
Potassium Nitrate 27%
Woodmeal 37%
Ammonium Oxalate 8%
Barium Nitrate 4%
Calcium Carbonate %
If you can't seem to get one or more of the ingredients try another one. If
you still can't, you can always buy small amounts from your school, or maybe
from various chemical companies. When you do that, be sure to say as little as
possible, if during the school year, and they ask, say it's for a experiment
for school.
54. Auto Exhaust Flame Thrower by The Jolly Roger
For this one, all you need is a car, a spark plug, ignition wire and a switch.
Install the spark plug into the last four or five inches of the tail pipe by
drilling a hole that the plug can screw into easily. Attach the wire (this is
regular insulated wire) to one side of the switch and to the spark plug. The
other side of the switch is attached to the positive terminal on the battery.
With the car running, simply hit the switch and watch the flames fly!!! Again
be careful that no one is behind you! I have seen some of these flames go 20
55. Breaking into BBS Express by The Jolly Roger
If you have high enough access on any BBS Express BBS you can get the Sysop's
password without any problems and be able to log on as him and do whatever you
like. Download the Pass file, delete the whole BBS, anything. Its all a matter
of uploading a text file and downloading it from the BBS. You must have high
enough access to see new uploads to do this. If you can see a file you just
uploaded you have the ability to break into the BBS in a few easy steps. Why am
I telling everyone this when I run BBS Express myself? Well there is one way to
stop this from happening and I want other Sysops to be aware of it and not have
it happen to them. Breaking in is all based on the MENU function of BBS
Express. Express will let you create a menu to display different text files by
putting the word MENU at the top of any text file and stating what files are to
be displayed. But due to a major screw up by Mr. Ledbetter you can use this
MENU option to display the USERLOG and the Sysop's Passwords or anything else
you like. I will show you how to get the Sysop's pass and therefore log on as
the Sysop. BBs Express Sysop's have 2 passwords. One like everyone else gets in
the form of X1XXX, and a Secondary password to make it harder to hack out the
Sysops pass. The Secondary pass is found in a file called SYSDATA.DAT. This
file must be on drive 1 and is therefore easy to get.
All you have to do is upload this simple Text file:
Rip-off time!
After you upload this file you download it non-Xmodem. Stupid Express thinks
it is displaying a menu and you will see this:
Rip-off time!
Selection [0]:
Just hit 1 and Express will display the SYSDATA.DAT file. OPPASS is where the
Sysop's Secondary pass will be. D1:USERLOG.DAT is where you will find the name
and Drive number of the USERLOG.DAT file. The Sysop might have renamed this
file or put it in a Subdirectory or even on a different drive. I Will Assume he
left it as D1:USERLOG.DAT. The other parts of this file tell you where the .HLP
screens are and where the LOG is saved and all the Download path names.
Now to get the Sysop's primary pass you upload a text file like this:
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Again you then download this file non-Xmodem and you will see:
Breaking into Bedwetter's BBS
Selection [0]:
You then hit 1 and the long USERLOG.DAT file comes flying at you. The Sysop is
the first entry in this very long file so it is easy. You will see:
You should now have his 2 passwords.
There is only one easy way out of this that I can think of, and that is to make
all new uploads go to SYSOP level (Level 9) access only. This way nobody can
pull off what I just explained. I feel this is a major Bug on Mr. Ledbetter's
part. I just don't know why no one had thought of it before. I would like to
give credit to Redline for the message he left on Modem Hell telling about this
problem, and also to Unka for his ideas and input about correcting it.
56. Firebombs by The Jolly Roger
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in
the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and
still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor
oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part
roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which were made
by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
57. Fuse Ignition Bomb by The Jolly Roger
A four strand homemade fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held
down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of
the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse
and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin.
Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents.
58. Generic Bomb by The Jolly Roger
1. Acquire a glass container.
2. Put in a few drops of gasoline.
3. Cap the top.
4. Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then
5. Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (Get this stuff from a snake bite
6. The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.
After throwing this thing, run like hell. This thing packs about stick of
59. Green Box Plans by the Jolly Roger
Paying the initial rate in order to use a red box (on certain fortresses) left
a sour taste in many red boxers mouths, thus the green box was invented. The
green box generates useful tones such as COIN COLLECT, COIN RETURN, AND
RINGBACK. These are the tones that ACTS or the TSPS operator would send to the
CO when appropriate. Unfortunately, the green box cannot be used at the
fortress station but must be used by the CALLED party.
Here are the tones:
COIN COLLECT 700+1100hz
COIN RETURN 1100+1700hz
RINGBACK 700+1700hz
Before the called party sends any of these tones, an operator release signal
should be sent to alert the MF detectors at the CO. This can be done by sending
900hz + 1500hz or a single 2600 wink (90 ms.) Also do not forget that the
initial rate is collected shortly before the 3 minute period is up.
Incidentally, once the above MF tones for collecting and returning coins reach
the CO, they are converted into an appropriate DC pulse (-130 volts for return
and +130 for collect). This pulse is then sent down the tip to the fortress.
This causes the coin relay to either return or collect the coins. The alleged
"T-network" takes advantage of this information. When a pulse for coin collect
(+130 VDC) is sent down the line, it must be grounded somewhere. This is
usually the yellow or black wire. Thus, if the wires are exposed, these wires
can be cut to prevent the pulse from being grounded. When the three minute
initial period is almost up, make sure that the black and yellow wires are
severed, then hang up, wait about 15 seconds in case of a second pulse,
reconnect the wires, pick up the phone, and if all goes well, it should be
"JACKPOT" time.
60. Portable Grenade Launcher by The Jolly Roger
If you have a bow, this one is for you. Remove the ferrule from an aluminum
arrow, and fill the arrow with black powder (I use grade FFFF, it burns easy)
and then glue a shotshell primer into the hole left where the ferrule went.
Next, glue a BB on the primer, and you are ready to go! Make sure no one is
nearby.... Little shreds of aluminum go all over the place!!
61. Hacking Tutorial by The Jolly Roger
What is hacking?
According to popular belief the term hacker and hacking was founded at MIT it
comes from the root of a hack writer, someone who keeps "hacking" at the
typewriter until he finishes the story. A computer hacker would be hacking at
the keyboard or password works.
What you need:
To hack you need a computer equipped with a modem (a device that lets you
transmit data over phone lines) which should cost you from $100 to $1200.
How do you hack?
Hacking requires two things:
1. The phone number.
2. Answer to identity elements.
How do you find the phone number?
There are three basic ways to find a computers phone number:
1. Scanning
2. Directory
3. Inside info
What is scanning?
Scanning is the process of having a computer search for a carrier tone. For
example, the computer would start at (800) 111-1111 and wait for carrier if
there is none it will go on to 111-1112 etc. If there is a carrier it will
record it for future use and continue looking for more.
What is directory assistance?
This way can only be used if you know where your target computer is. For this
example say it is in menlo park, CA and the company name is Sri.
1. Dial 411 (or 415-555-1212)
2. Say "Menlo park"
3. Say "Sri"
4. Write down number
5. Ask if there are any more numbers
6. If so write them down.
7. Hang up on operator
8. Dial all numbers you were given
9. Listen for carrier tone
10. If you hear carrier tone write down number, call it on your modem and your
set to hack!
62. The Basics of Hacking II by The Jolly Roger
Basics to know before doing anything, essential to your continuing career as
one of the elite in the country... This article, "The introduction to the
world of hacking." is meant to help you by telling you how not to get caught,
what not to do on a computer system, what type of equipment should I know about
now, and just a little on the history, past present future, of the hacker.
Welcome to the world of hacking! We, the people who live outside of the normal
rules, and have been scorned and even arrested by those from the 'civilized
world', are becoming scarcer every day. This is due to the greater fear of
what a good hacker (skill wise, no moral judgments here) can do nowadays, thus
causing anti- hacker sentiment in the masses. Also, few hackers seem to
actually know about the computer systems they hack, or what equipment they will
run into on the front end, or what they could do wrong on a system to alert the
'higher' authorities who monitor the system. This article is intended to tell
you about some things not to do, even before you get on the system. I will
tell you about the new wave of front end security devices that are beginning to
be used on computers. I will attempt to instill in you a second identity, to be
brought up at time of great need, to pull you out of trouble. And, by the way,
I take no, repeat, no, responsibility for what we say in this and the
forthcoming articles.
Enough of the bullshit, on to the fun: after logging on your favorite bbs, you
see on the high access board a phone number! It says it's a great system to
"fuck around with!" This may be true, but how many other people are going to
call the same number? So: try to avoid calling a number given to the public.
This is because there are at least every other user calling, and how many other
boards will that number spread to? If you call a number far, far away, and you
plan on going through an extender or a re-seller, don't keep calling the same
access number (I.E. As you would if you had a hacker running), this looks very
suspicious and can make life miserable when the phone bill comes in the mail.
Most cities have a variety of access numbers and services, so use as many as
you can. Never trust a change in the system... The 414's, the assholes, were
caught for this reason: when one of them connected to the system, there was
nothing good there. The next time, there was a trek game stuck right in their
way! They proceeded to play said game for two, say two and a half hours, while
telenet was tracing them! Nice job, don't you think? If anything looks
suspicious, drop the line immediately!! As in, yesterday!! The point we're
trying to get across is: if you use a little common sense, you won't get
busted. Let the little kids who aren't smart enough to recognize a trap get
busted, it will take the heat off of the real hackers. Now, let's say you get
on a computer
system... It looks great, checks out, everything seems fine. OK, now is when
it gets more dangerous. You have to know the computer system to know what not
to do. Basically, keep away from any command something, copy a new file into
the account, or whatever! Always leave the account in the same status you
logged in with. Change *nothing*... If it isn't an account with priv's, then
don't try any commands that require them! All, yes all, systems are going to be
keeping log files of what users are doing, and that will show up. It is just
like dropping a trouble-card in an ESS system, after sending that nice operator
a pretty tone. Spend no excessive amounts of time on the account in one
stretch. Keep your calling to the very late night if possible, or during
business hours (believe it or not!). It so happens that there are more users
on during business hours, and it is very difficult to read a log file with 60
users doing many commands every minute. Try to avoid systems where everyone
knows each other, don't try to bluff. And above all: never act like you own
the system, or are the best there is. They always grab the people who's heads
swell... There is some very interesting front end equipment around nowadays,
but first let's define terms... By front end, we mean any device that you must
pass through to get at the real computer. There are devices that are made to
defeat hacker programs, and just plain old multiplexers. To defeat hacker
programs, there are now devices that pick up the phone and just sit there...
This means that your device gets no carrier, thus you think there isn't a
computer on the other end. The only way around it is to detect when it was
picked up. If it picks up after the same number ring, then you know it is a
hacker-defeater. These devices take a multi-digit code to let you into the
system. Some are, in fact, quite sophisticated to the point where it will also
limit the user name's down, so only one name or set of names can be valid
logins after they input the code... Other devices input a number code, and then
they dial back a pre-programmed number for that code. These systems are best to
leave alone, because they know someone is playing with their phone. You may
think "but I'll just reprogram the dial-back." Think again, how stupid that
is... Then they have your number, or a test loop if you were just a little
smarter. If it's your number, they have your balls (if male...), if its a loop,
then you are screwed again, since those loops
are *monitored*. As for multiplexers... What a plexer is supposed to do is this:
The system can accept multiple users. We have to time share, so we'll let the
front-end processor do it... Well, this is what a multiplexer does. Usually
they will ask for something like "enter class" or "line:". Usually it is
programmed for a double digit number, or a four to five letter word. There are
usually a few sets of numbers it accepts, but those numbers also set your
300/1200/2400 baud data type. These multiplexers are inconvenient at best, so
not to worry. A little about the history of hacking: hacking, by my definition,
means a great knowledge of some special area. Doctors and lawyers are hackers
of a sort, by this definition. But most often, it is being used in the
computer context, and thus we have a definition of "anyone who has a great
amount of computer or telecommunications knowledge." You are not a hacker
because you have a list of codes... Hacking, by my definition, has then been
around only about 15 years. It started, where else but, MIT and colleges where
they had computer science or electrical engineering departments. Hackers have
created some of the best computer languages, the most awesome operating
systems, and even gone on to make millions. Hacking used to have a good name,
when we could honestly say "we know what we are doing". Now it means (in the
public eye): the 414's, Ron Austin, the NASA hackers, the arpanet hackers...
All the people who have been caught, have done damage, and are now going to
have to face fines and sentences. Thus we come past the moralistic crap, and to
our purpose: educate the hacker community, return to the days when people
actually knew something...
63. Hacking DEC's by The Jolly Roger
In this article you will learn how to log in to dec's, logging out, and all the
fun stuff to do in-between. All of this information is based on a standard dec
system. Since there are dec systems 10 and 20, and I favor, the dec 20, there
will be more info on them in this article. It just so happens that the dec 20
is also the more common of the two, and is used by much more interesting people
(if you know what I mean...) OK, the first thing you want to do when you are
receiving carrier from a dec system is to find out the format of login names.
You can do this by looking at who is on the system.
Dec=> ` (the 'exec' level prompt)
you=> sy
sy: short for sy(stat) and shows you the system status.
You should see the format of login names. A systat usually comes up in this
Job Line Program User
Job: The job number (not important unless you want to log them off later)
Line: What line they are on (used to talk to them...) These are both two or
three digit numbers.
Program: What program are they running under? If it says 'exec' they aren't
doing anything at all...
User: ahhhahhhh! This is the user name they are logged in under... Copy the
format, and hack yourself outa working code... Login format is as such:
dec=> `
you=> login username password
Username is the username in the format you saw above in the systat. After you
hit the space after your username, it will stop echoing characters back to your
screen. This is the password you are typing in... Remember, people usually
use their name, their dog's name, the name of a favorite character in a book,
or something like this. A few clever people have it set to a key cluster
(qwerty or asdfg). Passwords can be from 1 to 8 characters long, anything
after that is ignored. You are finally in... It would be nice to have a little
help, wouldn't it? Just type a ? Or the word help, and it will give you a
whole list of topics... Some handy characters for you to know would be the
control keys, wouldn't it? Backspace on a dec 20 is rub which is 255 on your
ASCII chart. On the dec 10 it is control-H. To abort a long listing or a
program, control-C works fine. Use Control-O to stop long output to the
terminal. This is handy when playing a game, but you don't want to control-C
out. Control-T for the time. Control-u will kill the whole line you are typing
at the moment. You may accidentally run a program where the only way out is a
control-X, so keep that in reserve. Control-s to stop listing, control-Q to
continue on both systems. Is your terminal having trouble?? Like, it pauses for
no reason, or it doesn't backspace right? This is because both systems support
many terminals, and you haven't told it what yours is yet... You are using a
VT05 so you need to tell it you are one.
Dec=> `
you=> information terminal
You=> info
(This shows you what your terminal is set up as.)
Dec=>all sorts of shit, then the `
you=> set ter vt05
(This sets your terminal type to VT05.)
Now let's see what is in the account (here after abbreviated acct.) that you
have hacked onto. Say:
=> dir
(Short for directory.)
It shows you what the user of the code has save to the disk. There should be a
format like this: xxxxx.Oooxxxxx is the file name, from 1 to 20 characters
long. Ooo is the file type, one of: exe, txt, dat, bas, cmd and a few others
that are system dependant. Exe is a compiled program that can be run (just by
typing its name at the `)
Txt is a text file, which you can see by typing:
=>type xxxxx.Txt
Do not try to:
=>type xxxxx.Exe
(This is very bad for your terminal and will tell you absolutely
Dat is data they have saved.
Bas is a basic program, you can have it typed out for you.
Cmd is a command type file, a little too complicated to go into here. Try:
=>take xxxxx.Cmd
By the way, there are other users out there who may have files you can use.
(Gee, why else am I here?)
=> dir <*.*> (Dec 20)
=> dir [*,*] (Dec 10)
* is a wildcard, and will allow you to access the files on other accounts if
the user has it set for public access. If it isn't set for public access, then
you won't see it. To run that program:
dec=> `
you=> username program-name
Username is the directory you saw the file listed under, and file name was what
else but the file name? ** You are not alone ** remember, you said (at the
very start) sy short for systat, and how we said this showed the other users
on the system? Well, you can talk to them, or at least send a message to
anyone you see listed in a systat. You can do this by:
dec=> the user list (from your systat)
you=> talkusername (Dec 20)
send username (Dec 10)
Talk allows you and them immediate transmission of whatever you/they type to be
sent to the other. Send only allow you one message to be sent, and send, they
will send back to you, with talk you can just keep going. By the way, you may
be noticing with the talk command that what you type is still acted upon by the
parser (control program). To avoid the constant error messages type either:
you=> ;your message
you=> rem your message
the semi-colon tells the parser that what follows is just a comment. Rem is
short for 'remark' and ignores you from then on until you type a control-Z or
control-C, at which point it puts you back in the exec mode. To break the
connection from a talk command type:
you=> break priv's:
If you happen to have privs, you can do all sorts of things. First of all, you
have to activate those privs.
You=> enable
This gives you a $ prompt, and allows you to do this: whatever you can do to
your own directory you can now do to any other directory. To create a new acct.
Using your privs, just type:
=>build username
If username is old, you can edit it, if it is new, you can define it to be
whatever you wish. Privacy means nothing to a user with privs. By the way,
there are various levels of privs: operator, wheel, cia. Wheel is the most
powerful, being that he can log in from anywhere and have his powers. Operators
have their power because they are at a special terminal allowing them the
privs. Cia is short for 'confidential information access', which allows you a
low level amount of privs. Not to worry though, since you can read the system
log file, which also has the passwords to all the other accounts.
To de-activate your privs, type:
you=> disable
when you have played your greedy heart out, you can finally leave the
system with the command:
This logs the job you are using off the system (there may be varients of this
such as kjob, or killjob.)
64. Harmless Bombs by The Jolly Roger
To all those who do not wish to inflict bodily damage on their victims but only
terror. These are weapons that should be used from high places.
1. The Flour Bomb
Take a wet paper towel and pour a given amount of baking flour in the center.
Then wrap it up and put on a rubber band to keep it together. When thrown it
will fly well but when it hits, it covers the victim with the flower or
causes a big puff of flour which will put the victim in terror since as far
as they are concerned, some strange white powder is all over them. This is a
cheap method of terror and for only the cost of a roll of paper towels and a
bag of flour you and your friends can have loads of fun watching people flee
in panic.
2. Smoke Bomb Projectile
All you need is a bunch of those little round smoke bombs and a wrist rocket or
any sling-shot. Shoot the smoke bombs and watch the terror since they think
it will blow up!
3. Rotten Eggs (Good ones)
Take some eggs and get a sharp needle and poke a small hole in the top of each
one. Then let them sit in a warm place for about a week. Then you've got a
bunch of rotten eggs that will only smell when they hit.
4. Glow in the Dark Terror
Take one of those tubes of glow in the dark stuff and pour the stuff on
whatever you want to throw and when it gets on the victim, they think it's
some deadly chemical or a radioactive substance so they run in total panic.
This works especially well with flower bombs since a gummy, glowing
substance gets all over the victim.
5. Fizzling Panic
Take a baggy of a water-baking soda solution and seal it. (Make sure there
is no air in it since the solution will form a gas and you don't want it to
pop on you.) Then put it in a bigger plastic bag and fill it with vinegar
and seal it. When thrown, the two substances will mix and cause a violently
bubbling substance to go all over the victim.
65. Breaking Into Houses by The Jolly Roger
Okay You Need:
1. Tear Gas or Mace
2. A BB/Pellet Gun
3. An Ice Pick
4. Thick Gloves
What You Do Is:
1. Call the house, or ring doorbell, to find out if they're home.
2. If they're not home then...
3. Jump over the fence or walk through gate (whatever).
4. If you see a dog give him the mace or tear gas.
5. Put the gloves on!!!!!!!
6. Shoot the BB gun slightly above the window locks.
7. Push the ice-pick through the hole (made by the BB gun).
8. Enter window.
9. FIRST...Find the LIVING ROOM. (there're neat things there!).
10. Goto the bedroom to get a pillow case. Put the goodies in the pillow case.
11. Get out <-* FAST! -*>
Notes: You should have certain targets worked out (like computers, Radios,
Ect.) Also <-* NEVER *-> Steal from your own neighborhood. If you think they
have an alarm...<-* FORGET IT! *->.

Putting the sensual in non-consensual.
vaga1220 is offline   Reply With Quote


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